Modernist

There's a certain snobby element to fashion shows that dictates that it's better to get a seat than to stand. At fuk.co.uk we beg to differ. Not only does standing afford access to the exit when the post-show scrum erupts, it means you can actually see the clothes coming down the catwalk. Stupidly, during the wait for this show to start, we decided to take the weight off our high heels so when the girls eventually came out it was difficult to judge much below their shoulders. What we could see, however, looked pretty interesting.

In a 'subverted take on the occult and voodoo' craft and couture techniques were blended together to create a collection that was packed with contrasts. Interesting details include Wicker Man-inspired basket-woven elastic used to construct armour-like 50s-style jackets and deconstructed dresses.

The focal point of this season's collection, however, is the sleeves. On jersey coats they are raglan and cashmere, while on boxy jackets they're darted and pleated into unusual volumes. One of our favourite pieces has them constructed in such a way as to create an abstracted shrug. But, once again, it was the accessories that caught our eye: neckpieces made from silk georgette shredded into ribbons, rosette-laden necklaces, perspex belts and large pompoms.

If we had to make a criticism it would be that one or two of the knitwear pieces erred a little on the bulky side making even the whippet-thin models look like they'd hit the pies. Nevertheless, with cashmere aran knits, shearling, leather, silk and technical jersey often worked into the same garment these are clothes that are bound to feel as good as they look.

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Ian Gillett