Unconditional

With each new season delivering yet another well judged, skillfully executed collection Unconditional further cements its reputation as one of London's most exciting young labels. Moreover, by refusing to rest on his creative laurels, designer Philip Stephens gives us something fresh with every show. This time last year, he packed his audience into the bowels of iconic nightclub Heaven for a techno-fest of snazzy sportswear. Today we filed politely, tentatively even, into Mary Ward house; a Victorian wood paneled venue where the floorboards creak and the dust catches in the sunlight.

Despite being billed as 'The World to Come' the proceedings were imbued was a strong sense of nostalgia for a time gone by. From the 1930s feel of the styling to the way the models wandered, like ghosts, from one room to another clutching lap dogs and reading from musty, leather-bound books this felt like a step back in history. Yet far from being old-fashioned this is a very wearable collection brought firmly into the here and now by Stephens' eye for detail. Trenches boast high zipped-on collars, fabric volumes are cinched to create languid silhouettes, and Bernstock Spiers' shredded silk tiaras by are worn by boys and girls alike. In addition, the inclusion of sexy leather pieces (pencil skirts, biker jacket-inspired gilets and over-the-elbow fingerless gloves) acts as a contrast to the more romantic aspects of the collection. And as if all that wasn't enough, Unconditional further endeared themselves to us this season by dispensing with the regulation showy invite, opting instead for a photocopied sheet and a big donation to Save The Children. Three cheers now….

Words: Maia Adams
Photos: Chris Moore