W33 Petit Standard if you see them 
Archive: THE DENIM THREAD-All denim related questions etc in here please
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10 May 2011 09:53
10 May 2011 14:14
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10 May 2011 21:06
10 May 2011 21:26
10 May 2011 21:43
Yeh with the taper, to keep the selvedge finish i offer 2 ways of doing it.
If you dont want alot off them, say from a 8" bottom width to a 7 1/2" or at a push a 7" i can do the 'spread' finish where i taper the selvedge seam but dont cut anything away,just unstitch the old seam and spread this open, so if still have the selvedge there when you wear a turn up. If you start going in loads, it is best to complety do away with the inner seam and go threw the crutch, but this wway you will lose some length in the crutch and the thighs will go in a touch.
Oh and while i am posting about tapering, i don't go straight threw the side seams any more(unless requested for a cheaper job) , i know when i was doing it was a poor quality job, sorry to anyone who may have had this done. It was more down to it being an easier quicker job to carry out, but realise you guys use me cos i dont do the 'dry cleaner' type job
With regards to discounts, i will prob do a discount on the chain stitching for a month while you guys see what its like, prob do them at 9.95 for a month and then back upto 14.95. The machine is costing a fair bit so need to get some £££'s back from it
and the dreaded VAT at 20% doesnt help things out
10 May 2011 21:57
^ my chainstitched Samurai’s have that roping effect too
but then again so do my non-chainstitched Dior’s (not my pic, but look the same as these ones):
I suppose chainstitching is worth getting if the option is there anyway (I’ve got all of the jeans I bought from BIG chainstitched because they happened to offer the service)
It’s nice to have on japanese repro stuff because it fits with the whole ‘authenticity’ thing (however gimmicky this may be), seems a bit pointless and out of place on ‘fashion denim’ though (APC/Nudies/Dior etc)
that said, it’s the cool thing to do now regardless so the machine would probably be a good investment
though like Ruben, I would personally only ever replace a chain with a chain, not upgrade a single to a chain
Those that like the cut of Petit Standard raws but have biggish thighs, there is a model instore called Petit Standard 'Leger'. They have 2% elastane in them, which i found a great fit. Not gonna fade quite as well but I like the indigo colour personally.
http://www.scoutthestore.se/en/art/apc-petit-standard-leger.php
http://www.scoutthestore.se/en/art/apc-petit-standard-leger.php
Hi ppl,
1st post on the forum, so be gentle
Mike here from The Denim Doctor in Manchester.
Just thought i better join the forum, i keep getting so much work from you all and to say a massive thank you for all your business over the past few years, i really do appricate you posting me your denim to alter and repair.
My main reason for coming on today is i can buy a chain stitch machine, finally after over a year of looking for one, ive finally found one, now ill be totally honest its not a Union Special, but its basically the more modern version of one and is the same and from my point of view, but is it the same as a Union Special chain stitch hem finish ??? from my eye is does.
Ive not bought the machine yet as i want you guys to have a look and see what you think, its not cheap so i wanted to make 100% certain its good enough for all you 'denim heads'
I was down at the sewing machine shop having a play with it for a few hours yesterday, i used a medium weight orange thread 70's thickness, the ones i have in here are a little bit thicker than what the guy had for me to try out.
I took a few samples and ill post pics below. If any of the mods or anyone else would like to see the finish for real, ill glady post out some examples for you to see on actual denim.
Ive got about 5 examples so dont mind sending a few out for some feedback.
(the pics below are just quick examples, so arent 100% straight hems as i just had to chop up some denim on site and have a play)
(to the mods on the forum, if this comes under 'touting for work' i am sorry and you can remove the thread, or pm me and on what chat is acceptable)
Any comments are well received as you guys who will be the deciding factor on whether to buy the machine or not.
Thx Mike
(sorry for the pic quality, bit shakey hands after Sundays drinking antics after celebrating the United vs Chelsea game
)
1st post on the forum, so be gentle
Mike here from The Denim Doctor in Manchester.
Just thought i better join the forum, i keep getting so much work from you all and to say a massive thank you for all your business over the past few years, i really do appricate you posting me your denim to alter and repair.
My main reason for coming on today is i can buy a chain stitch machine, finally after over a year of looking for one, ive finally found one, now ill be totally honest its not a Union Special, but its basically the more modern version of one and is the same and from my point of view, but is it the same as a Union Special chain stitch hem finish ??? from my eye is does.
Ive not bought the machine yet as i want you guys to have a look and see what you think, its not cheap so i wanted to make 100% certain its good enough for all you 'denim heads'
I was down at the sewing machine shop having a play with it for a few hours yesterday, i used a medium weight orange thread 70's thickness, the ones i have in here are a little bit thicker than what the guy had for me to try out.
I took a few samples and ill post pics below. If any of the mods or anyone else would like to see the finish for real, ill glady post out some examples for you to see on actual denim.
Ive got about 5 examples so dont mind sending a few out for some feedback.
(the pics below are just quick examples, so arent 100% straight hems as i just had to chop up some denim on site and have a play)
(to the mods on the forum, if this comes under 'touting for work' i am sorry and you can remove the thread, or pm me and on what chat is acceptable)
Any comments are well received as you guys who will be the deciding factor on whether to buy the machine or not.
Thx Mike
(sorry for the pic quality, bit shakey hands after Sundays drinking antics after celebrating the United vs Chelsea game
)
Been speaking to the Doc over the last couple of days and he said he was thinking of charging £15 for leg shortening and a chain stitch. I got quoted £20 to have my Samurai's done at Son of Stag.
The Doc certainly knows his stuff and i think it would be well worth his while investing in a chain stitch machine.
The Doc certainly knows his stuff and i think it would be well worth his while investing in a chain stitch machine.
I was going to charge 14.95 per jean to be shortened with the chain stitch replaced, will put proper price list on the website when ive got the machine, with cost of tapering with chain stitch replaced etc… the machine should be coming next week.
I didnt want to commit to the machine, if its not going to be upto the grade of a Union Special.
Any idea from the pics ppl.
Ive just posted some samples off to Lance and one of the Mods on here, forget his name now, Haydn ?? just repaired some of his APC's on the crutch today.
I didnt want to commit to the machine, if its not going to be upto the grade of a Union Special.
Any idea from the pics ppl.
Ive just posted some samples off to Lance and one of the Mods on here, forget his name now, Haydn ?? just repaired some of his APC's on the crutch today.
Pics look good, hard to see what effect it will have over time though - the main reason a chain stitch is important to me is that it creates the roping effect on hems when they become worn.. This is the best pic I can find:
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
Spoke to Mike on the phone earlier, well friendly fella and really helpful considering I posted my jeans off without any return info in there
I'm thinking about purchasing another pair of APC Petit Standards which I might send off straightaway to be hemmed and chain stitched so I'll definitely be in for this.
Mike's sent through a sample to me, I've got a pair of Samurai's which I'm pretty sure are chain stitched so I'll compare the two and hopefully get some photos of the work on both.
I'm thinking about purchasing another pair of APC Petit Standards which I might send off straightaway to be hemmed and chain stitched so I'll definitely be in for this.
Mike's sent through a sample to me, I've got a pair of Samurai's which I'm pretty sure are chain stitched so I'll compare the two and hopefully get some photos of the work on both.
Id be more than happy to pay £15 for that service, as i pay £20 a pop at SOS. Get some kind of fuk GJ' discount going and your onto a winner.
Also, can you take jeans in (Taper) from the inseam so i wont lose the selvedge?
Also, can you take jeans in (Taper) from the inseam so i wont lose the selvedge?
Yeh with the taper, to keep the selvedge finish i offer 2 ways of doing it.
If you dont want alot off them, say from a 8" bottom width to a 7 1/2" or at a push a 7" i can do the 'spread' finish where i taper the selvedge seam but dont cut anything away,just unstitch the old seam and spread this open, so if still have the selvedge there when you wear a turn up. If you start going in loads, it is best to complety do away with the inner seam and go threw the crutch, but this wway you will lose some length in the crutch and the thighs will go in a touch.
Oh and while i am posting about tapering, i don't go straight threw the side seams any more(unless requested for a cheaper job) , i know when i was doing it was a poor quality job, sorry to anyone who may have had this done. It was more down to it being an easier quicker job to carry out, but realise you guys use me cos i dont do the 'dry cleaner' type job
With regards to discounts, i will prob do a discount on the chain stitching for a month while you guys see what its like, prob do them at 9.95 for a month and then back upto 14.95. The machine is costing a fair bit so need to get some £££'s back from it
and the dreaded VAT at 20% doesnt help things out
the main reason a chain stitch is important to me is that it creates the roping effect on hems when they become worn.. This is the best pic I can find:
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
^ my chainstitched Samurai’s have that roping effect too
but then again so do my non-chainstitched Dior’s (not my pic, but look the same as these ones):
I suppose chainstitching is worth getting if the option is there anyway (I’ve got all of the jeans I bought from BIG chainstitched because they happened to offer the service)
It’s nice to have on japanese repro stuff because it fits with the whole ‘authenticity’ thing (however gimmicky this may be), seems a bit pointless and out of place on ‘fashion denim’ though (APC/Nudies/Dior etc)
that said, it’s the cool thing to do now regardless so the machine would probably be a good investment
though like Ruben, I would personally only ever replace a chain with a chain, not upgrade a single to a chain
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