fixed it to june.
Archive: THE DENIM THREAD-All denim related questions etc in here please
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13 May 2011 21:24
I never knew that about the roping, wondered why the chain stitch was important, thanks
13 May 2011 22:09
14 May 2011 01:22
19 May 2011 17:41
I'm considering the APC NS in washed black as I was looking for a nice pair of rinsed jeans, although I'm not sure if I would wear black jeans much.
Are they like other rinsed denim or will the dye still fade and tranfer to shoes and shirts (that's what puts me of raw demim) ? Also sizing wise will these be different to the raws, and will they shrink ?
19 May 2011 20:45
It's usually the case that significantly distressed/washed out denim is at least one size bigger than that of the raws, but then you have to consider the APC stretch factor. Buy black raws and wash lots.
20 May 2011 16:28
how do you want them to fit? what's your price range?
erm last pair of jeans i got were New Cures so I guess like that as they were fine and I guess I'd pay around APC pricing so upto about £120.
I saw those unbranded jeans also, might give them a whirl albeit that aren't black.
Cheers for your reply btw.
Pics look good, hard to see what effect it will have over time though - the main reason a chain stitch is important to me is that it creates the roping effect on hems when they become worn.. This is the best pic I can find:
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
^^ This is how I want the hems of my quality jeans to look.
I never knew that about the roping, wondered why the chain stitch was important, thanks
I'm not 100% certain, it's something I read on superfuture years ago when I used to follow the denim threads over there a bit… Makes sense to me that a chain would cause it or at least exacerbate it, so would like to see examples of nice roping with a regular stitch if there are any.
This is spot on, taken from sufu:
quote:
originally posted by frzn view post
Have Samurai's, need them hemmed.
I would have to send them away to get chain stitched if I wanted that, otherwise I'll just take them to a local tailor.
Is there a huge difference in quality? Can someone tell me exactly how different the two look? I want to keep my nice selvage look. Someone said something about 'roping' but I dont know what that means.
Thanks, I'd really rather not have to send my jeans back Im low on funds but if its worth it I would i guess.
There's not a huge difference in quality, but there is a big difference in look.
CHainstitching has a distinctive appearance, associated with vintage jeans, and the most common machine also pulls the hem in a certain way. THis is what gives roping as the fabric shrinks. IN addition, a Union Special rolls the hem, rather than folding it, which further helps define the look on most vintage and repro hems.
IN short, the chainstitch has a different look because of the stitch itself, the way the Union Special pulls the hem around, and the fact the hem is rolled.
Getting them shortened by a tailor, especially now they've shrunk somewhat, you won't get roping. It is possible to get decent roping with a conventional lockstitch but you need to know exactly what you're doing. Also, getting them chainstitched after they've shrunk will only give minimal roping.
Roping: pic by ranonranonrat:
quote:
and finally for a macro shot of the roping.
And here's roping with a conventional lockstitch: note how he's pulled the hem right round. It's not the same look as a Union Special, but it's a decent approximation.
quote:
originally posted by klue view post
TLDR: Roping is caused by a combination of the machine pulling on the hem, rolling the hem and the shrinking of the denim post-soak/post-wash.
Roping will be minimal on a pair which has already been soaked or washed so to keep a chain stitched hem and still to get roping you need to know how much the inseam will shrink and allow for that when getting them hemmed when they are still new.
quote:
originally posted by frzn view post
Have Samurai's, need them hemmed.
I would have to send them away to get chain stitched if I wanted that, otherwise I'll just take them to a local tailor.
Is there a huge difference in quality? Can someone tell me exactly how different the two look? I want to keep my nice selvage look. Someone said something about 'roping' but I dont know what that means.
Thanks, I'd really rather not have to send my jeans back Im low on funds but if its worth it I would i guess.
There's not a huge difference in quality, but there is a big difference in look.
CHainstitching has a distinctive appearance, associated with vintage jeans, and the most common machine also pulls the hem in a certain way. THis is what gives roping as the fabric shrinks. IN addition, a Union Special rolls the hem, rather than folding it, which further helps define the look on most vintage and repro hems.
IN short, the chainstitch has a different look because of the stitch itself, the way the Union Special pulls the hem around, and the fact the hem is rolled.
Getting them shortened by a tailor, especially now they've shrunk somewhat, you won't get roping. It is possible to get decent roping with a conventional lockstitch but you need to know exactly what you're doing. Also, getting them chainstitched after they've shrunk will only give minimal roping.
Roping: pic by ranonranonrat:
quote:

and finally for a macro shot of the roping.
And here's roping with a conventional lockstitch: note how he's pulled the hem right round. It's not the same look as a Union Special, but it's a decent approximation.
quote:
originally posted by klue view postTLDR: Roping is caused by a combination of the machine pulling on the hem, rolling the hem and the shrinking of the denim post-soak/post-wash.
Roping will be minimal on a pair which has already been soaked or washed so to keep a chain stitched hem and still to get roping you need to know how much the inseam will shrink and allow for that when getting them hemmed when they are still new.
I'm considering the APC NS in washed black as I was looking for a nice pair of rinsed jeans, although I'm not sure if I would wear black jeans much.
Are they like other rinsed denim or will the dye still fade and tranfer to shoes and shirts (that's what puts me of raw demim) ? Also sizing wise will these be different to the raws, and will they shrink ?
I'm considering the APC NS in washed black as I was looking for a nice pair of rinsed jeans, although I'm not sure if I would wear black jeans much.
Are they like other rinsed denim or will the dye still fade and tranfer to shoes and shirts (that's what puts me of raw demim) ? Also sizing wise will these be different to the raws, and will they shrink ?
Are they like other rinsed denim or will the dye still fade and tranfer to shoes and shirts (that's what puts me of raw demim) ? Also sizing wise will these be different to the raws, and will they shrink ?
It's usually the case that significantly distressed/washed out denim is at least one size bigger than that of the raws, but then you have to consider the APC stretch factor. Buy black raws and wash lots.
Any recommendations for black jeans please?
Thanks
L
Thanks
L
how do you want them to fit? what's your price range?
erm last pair of jeans i got were New Cures so I guess like that as they were fine and I guess I'd pay around APC pricing so upto about £120.
I saw those unbranded jeans also, might give them a whirl albeit that aren't black.
Cheers for your reply btw.
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