Menswear: The 'Whistle And Flute' Thread..Everything To Do With 'Suits' In Here!!


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eazypz
eazypz avatar

2979 posts since 16/4/10

20 Sep 2016 11:40
When wearing a tux, is it a must to wear a double cuff shirt? Hate cuff links and much prefer buttoned cuffs.
San
San avatar

10493 posts since 14/11/05

20 Sep 2016 13:12
timmbo wrote:
San wrote: P Johnson Tailors have now opened a new store on 64 Dean Street.

Dependent on quality of materials then you could get a made to measure for around the £1k mark and would be good lightweight choice.

can't find any info on this on their website San, deets?

Announced that they had opened this weekend so maybe pop down and take a look if in the area, if not contact via gk@pjt.com for any queries. More of a relaxed silhouette which suits my style plus the guys are safe.
Turnaround was 3 months but now they have a store here so may now be shorter.
https://pjt.com/
generic_guy
generic_guy avatar

9217 posts since 16/9/02

20 Sep 2016 15:10
eazypz wrote: When wearing a tux, is it a must to wear a double cuff shirt? Hate cuff links and much prefer buttoned cuffs.

Yes, french cuffs are the correct option.
I'm sure you could get away with standard cuffs but I don't think they'd look as good.
Compromise with a cocktail cuff?
eazypz
eazypz avatar

2979 posts since 16/4/10

posted 21 Sep 2016 15:10, edited 21 Sep 2016 15:10
Gonna stick with double cuff, invested in a set of cufflinks now as well - https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/mens/mulberry/silver-plated-mother-of-pearl-cufflinks/718718?ppv=2


For shoes, can i get these - https://www.mrporter.com/en-gb/mens/churchs/dubai-polished-leather-oxford-shoes/629145?ppv=2

Or do i really need to go for the patent leather option? I'm thinking if I get the above I can wear them more often, patent shoes are pretty much Tux occassion only in my eyes.
brahms
brahms avatar

265 posts since 15/2/12

posted 21 Sep 2016 15:17, edited 21 Sep 2016 15:17
Depends what your black tie event is. 99% of people can't be fucked with the "full" "correct" rig so you probably won't stand out in black oxfords unless you're going to DavCam's birthday party or an Eton reunion or something.

That said, I feel like I recall "binder leather" being shit? And what you want to go for is "calf leather"

Shouldn't cost any more than those Churchs.

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/search.php?task=search&Types;%5B%5D=1&nsFrom;=0&nsLimit;=24&country;_id=6&Tags;%5B%5D=2&Colours;%5B%5D=1&Sizes;%5B%5D=&Fits;%5B%5D=2&sale;_search=0&search;_source=normal_search_box
eazypz
eazypz avatar

2979 posts since 16/4/10

21 Sep 2016 15:29
The "black tie" event is my wedding Laughing out loud
Crackajack
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7057 posts since 21/4/05

21 Sep 2016 16:33
I got some Herring in corrected grain / polished for £120.

Binder leather from Church's is their version of corrected-grain leather. Definitely below calf, which I would have thought would be what you would want for your wedding? Obviously Church's binder wont be crap, and will have a higher shine, but wont polish up like calf if damaged. They may be uncomfortable / inflexible for a while as well. It wont generally wear or get a nice patina.

I think the advantage is that it is slightly more weatherproof.

I recommend Herring though, would happily buy a pair of the ones I have in calf as my best pair - I think all made in England are done by Loake and they come with shoebags, polish etc.
DuffMan
DuffMan avatar

14254 posts since 21/2/07

posted 21 Sep 2016 20:25, edited 21 Sep 2016 20:25
.
brahms
brahms avatar

265 posts since 15/2/12

23 Sep 2016 13:48
I have a pair of herring calf leather which I also recommend.

I have a pair of patent leather shoes for my black tie stuff but they're Sanders eBay specials, depending on how much time you have left you could get lucky. Personally can't afford spending more than a hundred on shoes that only get worn once in a blue moon but if it's your wedding and an evening event, then maybe it'd be worth it.

A compromise could be a wholecut shoe like http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-info.php?colset=1&styleid;=940&shoeid;=3120&brandid;=6&catid;=42&oldcolid;=1692&stype;=0&colourid;=1693

Maybe a bit more eveningwear style, but still could probably work during the day or in less formal set ups (unlike patent leather which only really works in black tie situations)
yellowpages
yellowpages avatar

2115 posts since 11/6/10

28 Sep 2016 19:36
Best place for simple black dress shoes around £150? Left mine in the US and got a wedding to attend next week…
eazypz
eazypz avatar

2979 posts since 16/4/10

29 Sep 2016 00:33
Cheers for the advice above fellas, the Churchs Dubai is available in calf or polished binder, so went for calf.
Spoke to the sales assistant and managed to get staff discount Cool
brahms
brahms avatar

265 posts since 15/2/12

29 Sep 2016 12:59
@yellowpages feel like a herring shill right now but

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/herring/sitwell_oxford/black-calf

or

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/herring/belfast_oxford/black-calf
illwill
illwill avatar

3533 posts since 17/5/04

29 Sep 2016 13:23
What's the deal with Herring? Why have I never heard of them if they're up with the Northampton boys?
Crackajack
Crackajack avatar

7057 posts since 21/4/05

29 Sep 2016 16:33
They started out selling other English brands. I don't think they make their own shoes, and didn't do their own brand until relatively recently.
BANKS
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187 posts since 8/5/14

posted 29 Sep 2016 21:17, edited 29 Sep 2016 21:17
They don't make their own shoes. The different lines are made by various Northampton factories such as Cheaney, Loake, Alfred Sargent etc. and Herring branding applied.

Cheaper lines are made elsewhere in European.

I'd recommend their premier line. They are made to the same spec and same quality leather and in the same factory as similiar models made by the aforementioned makes but for a lesser price.
BANKS
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187 posts since 8/5/14

posted 29 Sep 2016 21:18, edited 29 Sep 2016 21:18
double post
ELSLEY
ELSLEY avatar

26 posts since 11/1/16

5 Oct 2016 21:31
Recommendations for overcoats for winter? Preferably to go navy and grey suits so I don't have to buy two.
snaye
snaye avatar

10637 posts since 24/10/02

posted 5 Oct 2016 22:44, edited 5 Oct 2016 22:44
Grey on grey not so good, blue on blue is fine, blue over grey and vice versa

Navy without a doubt will be your safest and more versatile option.

Navy shades can vary depending on cloth type. Personally It's all about texture, mix the texture and get a different shade of navy compared to the suit and your golden. Flannel wool single breast overcoat will work with greys, charcoals and blue variants.

I have a Caruso per Trunk navy and grey overcoat they do each year and for me its the ideal top layer over suits. Mix the fabric textures and you will be fine.


Superprecise
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2056 posts since 16/7/11

6 Oct 2016 07:39
camel?
MoB
MoB avatar

36622 posts since 31/8/04

posted 6 Oct 2016 07:47, edited 6 Oct 2016 07:47
Superprecise wrote: camel?

Gotta be brave imo. I rarely wore mine last winter.

Edit: Like snaye said, go with navy.