http://www.traversetokyo.com/journal/k_hemmi2.html#mainWrapper
Kei Hemmi is the Founder and Creative Director of “TIMEWORN CLOTHING”, his two other labels come under the same umbrella, “AT LAST & CO” which focuses on workwear including his well reputed denim, and “BUTCHER PRODUCTS” which encompasses Military and Sportswear inspired items. In 1997 together with Toru Nishiura they created “TENDERLOIN”.
Chance meetings
Hemmi, Nishi and Mano have been friends since their teens and throughout their lives they have challenged the norms of Japanese society. All have had different experiences throughout their lives, some living in foreign countries, nonetheless, these friendships continue to the present day.
In the 80’s and ‘90s, as is well documented, Tokyo and in particular Shibuya and Harajuku were at the forefront of what we have come to know as street fashion, this small area was a melting pot of sub-cultures/movements simultaneously coexisting.
One of these was the ‘Amekaji’ - the Tokyo interpretation of the American & American Indian inspired style, in which all three friends were immersed. Whatever namesake it was given at the time, it was inspired by all things American, particularly workwear, denim, leather, there were also elements of military, Native American, sportswear and many more influences, in particular, Motorbikes, which were an integral part of the lifestyle. A wide field of vision that can only be put together with the panache and sensibility Japanese seem to have a natural knack for.
During that exciting time the experiences and antics of the three and their immediate friends, even though they did not know it at the time were to prove invaluable life lessons that would play a big influence later on in their lives.
Kei left school as soon as he was of an age that was legal to do so. “I was not good at school, I knew there was more out there, I was full of curiosity especially the stuff that I was interested in. Even though it was not so long ago, there was no internet or even mobile phones back then! So any information you wanted to get your hands on, you had to go and find it!” He spent his days soaking in all that was Shibuya and Harajuku, Fashion, motorcycles, music etc, having fun and getting into trouble.
First time meetings between Hemmi, Nishi and Mano have remained long lasting memories. During those sensitive youthful times where fights were inevitable, Hemmi re-collects some of those encounters.
“When I was a kid the only people who wore flight jackets (B-3) were used clothing shop staff, people who were in the know, but here was Mano wearing his B-3, Levis jeans, Engineer Boots and Teardrop sunglasses, his hair was greased back and he was carrying a Double Bass on his shoulder, cool and full of attitude, that was Mano”.
“The first time I met Nishi, I was hanging out smoking a cigarette and saw this guy walking by, he was wearing Goro’s accessories, Levis Big E jeans and Engineer Boots”. This style although common nowadays, was not back then. “My close friend Takeshi had told me that there was this cool guy Nishi living close to me, I was sure it was him so I called out and it was! I was excited all day to have met him, we clicked instantly and spent our days immersed in never ending conversations - movies, music, motorbikes, fashion, etc.”
In those days Hemmi was living hand to mouth. “In a way as exciting as that time was, I still needed money for the basic necessities, food rent etc., My only option was manual labour. My life was monotonous, getting up, going to work, getting told off by my boss, quitting, finding another job and so on. I realise now that as time passed by, my desire to get out of that rut was further fuelled by my frustration of being stuck in a loop.
Soon thereafter, he met his girlfriend who was returning to London, so he decided to take a chance, he had nothing to loose and at the same time was curious about London thinking life there, would definitely be better.
Life in London
Although he didn't know it at the time, he was in for the surprise of his life.
“London, looking back was one of the hardest, but, one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. At first it was nothing like I imagined it to be. It made the life I had left behind in Tokyo look very comfortable in comparison. It was a lonely time and I would often think about the friends I had left behind. London was cold, dark, the food was bad and I could not speak English. My girlfriend and I were living in a shared house, a room in the basement, with no windows and only just bigger than the bed itself. It was all we could afford”.
“It was tough for the first few years, in particular the language barrier. The only thing that made me forget everything was going to the flea markets and looking at all the vintage clothing I loved”.
But once again his determination and the freedom to create his future, kept him going. “I did not have this kind of motivation in Tokyo, something was different for whatever reason. All I knew was that under no circumstances would I return to the same situation in Tokyo. So I am very grateful for this experience, it taught me so many things, most importantly I found my focus”.
After a few years, still with limited English capabilities, he started to make friends with similar interests and through them he also started to become more interested in Tattoos. One his earlier tattoos was during a trip to Germany, by Luke Atkinson from Checker Demon Tattoos.
The Spirit of Timeworn Clothing
Fast forward to 2010, when Kei Hemmi created “TIMEWORN CLOTHING” a project very close to his heart. He began to focus wholeheartedly on the quality of his garments, the patterns, fabrics and silhouettes and after many years of experience, came to realize that the most important thing for him was to have clothing that he wanted to wear for many years to come and no matter how worn the fabric or old the style that feeling or connection with a particular piece remains special. This is the feeling he wishes to pass on to his customers.
Time moves forward and inevitable changes occur but Hemmi, Nishi and Mano still remain friends. “We have been friends since our teens and with each passing year we see less of each other. Nevertheless, our respect for one another is undeniable and so when the opportunity arises to meet up we always have a good laugh”.
“One of the many things that I am very grateful for is that even nowadays many years on we all still continue to do what we really love with great enthusiasm”.
Towards the end of this of this frank conversation with Hemmi, he is in a very nostalgic mood. Picking up a vintage fabric swatch from his bookshelf he starts to smile and talk keenly about the integrity of the fabric, the weave, fibres, drape and so on. We feel privileged to have had a chance to hear about some of Hemmi’s personal experiences and a small glimpse into his world and undeniable devotion to his craft.
Kei Hemmi is the Founder and Creative Director of “TIMEWORN CLOTHING”, his two other labels come under the same umbrella, “AT LAST & CO” which focuses on workwear including his well reputed denim, and “BUTCHER PRODUCTS” which encompasses Military and Sportswear inspired items. In 1997 together with Toru Nishiura they created “TENDERLOIN”.Chance meetings
Hemmi, Nishi and Mano have been friends since their teens and throughout their lives they have challenged the norms of Japanese society. All have had different experiences throughout their lives, some living in foreign countries, nonetheless, these friendships continue to the present day.
In the 80’s and ‘90s, as is well documented, Tokyo and in particular Shibuya and Harajuku were at the forefront of what we have come to know as street fashion, this small area was a melting pot of sub-cultures/movements simultaneously coexisting.
One of these was the ‘Amekaji’ - the Tokyo interpretation of the American & American Indian inspired style, in which all three friends were immersed. Whatever namesake it was given at the time, it was inspired by all things American, particularly workwear, denim, leather, there were also elements of military, Native American, sportswear and many more influences, in particular, Motorbikes, which were an integral part of the lifestyle. A wide field of vision that can only be put together with the panache and sensibility Japanese seem to have a natural knack for.
During that exciting time the experiences and antics of the three and their immediate friends, even though they did not know it at the time were to prove invaluable life lessons that would play a big influence later on in their lives.
Kei left school as soon as he was of an age that was legal to do so. “I was not good at school, I knew there was more out there, I was full of curiosity especially the stuff that I was interested in. Even though it was not so long ago, there was no internet or even mobile phones back then! So any information you wanted to get your hands on, you had to go and find it!” He spent his days soaking in all that was Shibuya and Harajuku, Fashion, motorcycles, music etc, having fun and getting into trouble.
First time meetings between Hemmi, Nishi and Mano have remained long lasting memories. During those sensitive youthful times where fights were inevitable, Hemmi re-collects some of those encounters.
“When I was a kid the only people who wore flight jackets (B-3) were used clothing shop staff, people who were in the know, but here was Mano wearing his B-3, Levis jeans, Engineer Boots and Teardrop sunglasses, his hair was greased back and he was carrying a Double Bass on his shoulder, cool and full of attitude, that was Mano”.
“The first time I met Nishi, I was hanging out smoking a cigarette and saw this guy walking by, he was wearing Goro’s accessories, Levis Big E jeans and Engineer Boots”. This style although common nowadays, was not back then. “My close friend Takeshi had told me that there was this cool guy Nishi living close to me, I was sure it was him so I called out and it was! I was excited all day to have met him, we clicked instantly and spent our days immersed in never ending conversations - movies, music, motorbikes, fashion, etc.”
In those days Hemmi was living hand to mouth. “In a way as exciting as that time was, I still needed money for the basic necessities, food rent etc., My only option was manual labour. My life was monotonous, getting up, going to work, getting told off by my boss, quitting, finding another job and so on. I realise now that as time passed by, my desire to get out of that rut was further fuelled by my frustration of being stuck in a loop.
Soon thereafter, he met his girlfriend who was returning to London, so he decided to take a chance, he had nothing to loose and at the same time was curious about London thinking life there, would definitely be better.
Life in London
Although he didn't know it at the time, he was in for the surprise of his life.
“London, looking back was one of the hardest, but, one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. At first it was nothing like I imagined it to be. It made the life I had left behind in Tokyo look very comfortable in comparison. It was a lonely time and I would often think about the friends I had left behind. London was cold, dark, the food was bad and I could not speak English. My girlfriend and I were living in a shared house, a room in the basement, with no windows and only just bigger than the bed itself. It was all we could afford”.
“It was tough for the first few years, in particular the language barrier. The only thing that made me forget everything was going to the flea markets and looking at all the vintage clothing I loved”.
But once again his determination and the freedom to create his future, kept him going. “I did not have this kind of motivation in Tokyo, something was different for whatever reason. All I knew was that under no circumstances would I return to the same situation in Tokyo. So I am very grateful for this experience, it taught me so many things, most importantly I found my focus”.
After a few years, still with limited English capabilities, he started to make friends with similar interests and through them he also started to become more interested in Tattoos. One his earlier tattoos was during a trip to Germany, by Luke Atkinson from Checker Demon Tattoos.
The Spirit of Timeworn Clothing
Fast forward to 2010, when Kei Hemmi created “TIMEWORN CLOTHING” a project very close to his heart. He began to focus wholeheartedly on the quality of his garments, the patterns, fabrics and silhouettes and after many years of experience, came to realize that the most important thing for him was to have clothing that he wanted to wear for many years to come and no matter how worn the fabric or old the style that feeling or connection with a particular piece remains special. This is the feeling he wishes to pass on to his customers.
Time moves forward and inevitable changes occur but Hemmi, Nishi and Mano still remain friends. “We have been friends since our teens and with each passing year we see less of each other. Nevertheless, our respect for one another is undeniable and so when the opportunity arises to meet up we always have a good laugh”.
“One of the many things that I am very grateful for is that even nowadays many years on we all still continue to do what we really love with great enthusiasm”.
Towards the end of this of this frank conversation with Hemmi, he is in a very nostalgic mood. Picking up a vintage fabric swatch from his bookshelf he starts to smile and talk keenly about the integrity of the fabric, the weave, fibres, drape and so on. We feel privileged to have had a chance to hear about some of Hemmi’s personal experiences and a small glimpse into his world and undeniable devotion to his craft.
TENDERLOIN, RATS, TIMEWORN CLOTHING 
trophy-dirt-denim-jacket-2605
I think this is me thinking out loud in an attempt to force myself to make that step!