Menswear: The 'Rough And Rugged' Thread.


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Nick.
Nick. avatar

3382 posts since 11/9/09

30 Sep 2014 01:23
Freewheelers again, because you know we all about the pics in here (these posts are so long winded on an iPad Laughing out loud)



































beedub
beedub avatar

6810 posts since 7/3/07

30 Sep 2014 05:35
Sayword wrote: My next shoe purchase…if ever…

http://htccalifornia.com/products/irregular-by-zip-stevenson

Fucking awesome, love these. Ubercool Ubercool Ubercool
C-Stylez
C-Stylez avatar

5246 posts since 4/7/12

30 Sep 2014 10:50

Joaquin Phoenix
Bennelli
Bennelli avatar

3461 posts since 25/5/11

30 Sep 2014 11:10
Very Ubercool past few pages



Mr McCoy x Warehouse
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/earthmarket/item/tools-2013-a1/
Sayword
Sayword avatar

5975 posts since 1/4/07

1 Oct 2014 05:11
that seems like a very interesting concept..and repro monopoly
Sayword
Sayword avatar

5975 posts since 1/4/07

1 Oct 2014 05:33
http://www.traversetokyo.com/journal/t_nishiura.html

Nishi, Hemmi, and Mano are long time friends. The decades they’ve spent together as equals have built them a firm friendship and also a friendly rivalry that’s empowered their movement. Looking back the times, both Hemmi and Mano would say they were often times influenced by Nishi from Tenderloin.

Nishi radiates an especially unique existence along his well praised creations and enthusiastic followers. Both the original style of his creations and the radical attitude he possesses is a true rarity in all of Tokyo. In this third episode, let us get deeper into his creative process and his philosophy behind it.

A new movement
「Tokyo in the 80’s was at the spark of the first subcultural movement. We used to gather at this club called Tsubaki House and see rockers, punks and 50’s heads all partying out in one venue. It was a spot where the heads with real style stood out and started earning street fame. Mano was a member of the most stylish 50’s crew and I began hearing about Hemmi from friends around this club. I guess that’s how we started noticing each other. 」

Japan was in the midst of a financial bubble. The Japanese economy and its popular cultures was in a state of mad frenzy from all the money in the market. Disco became a major destination for the youth and designer brands boomed the era as must have icons. At a time like this, underground heads who didn’t fit into this mainstream vibe took up western street cultures like rock, punk, 50’s, and hiphop and triggered various underground cultural movements. Nishi was in the midst of this new wave.

「The elders around us had crazy style. Their passion of teaching real underground culture to us younger ones was real, and it was never about money for them. They taught us so much about music, clothes, skate culture…pretty much everything we jumped onto and sought after. They fed us, took us drinking, and introduced us to many people that influenced us to this day.」

America
「At the time, American culture deeply intrigued me. I needed to see it with my own eyes, feel it with my own skin. And this zeal kept growing every day. To make America a real part of me, I had to plunge head first and fly there. I knew that was my only choice.」

Nishi sells his motor bike and buys a one way ticket to Los Angeles. With no savings or any plans of how to make a life out there, it was literally starting from zero, an alien nobody trying to survive. The only motivation was believing in himself and trusting that this challenge will profit him one day. The first step to the foundation of Tenderloin started here.

「I loved how real talent and abilities were praised without prejudice in the US. The thought of the possibility that one day my skills could be recognised got me going those hard days. Every day I was on my grind. It was a repetition of progress and failure, back and forth, but this steady time I put in definitely disciplined me and my values. 」

When Mano was banned from Tokyo, and Hemmi was tackling difficult times in London,
Nishi was also experiencing his own struggles in L.A. Oddly enough, all three of them living in different cities were confronting similar challenges in their lives at around the same time. But the hardships that imposed on them shaped their ability to get over many obstacles, and the basis of their values and standards slowly established and hardened with the adversities.

Nishi recollects one episode when a senior friend he respected gave him a Compton College cap. It was a normal cap sold on the campus, but this memory symbolises how his values had evolved .

「To me, that cap was worth more than an expensive suit or even a Ferrari. It really wasn’t about the value or price the world put on it. It’s about the value and attachment you put on it yourself. That is the essential factor that made subcultures and street cultures different from the rest of the dominant popular cultures.」

Japanese pride
「While I was in the US, I got to link up with many different cultures and hang out with its iconic leaders too. These valuable experiences eventually led me to realise what truly was original from Japan. My conclusion was the one culture that could be presented to the world with pride was ‘Amekaji’(the Tokyo interpretation of the American & American Indian inspired style). It was street, real, and one and only. This realisation determined my life. The life I still pursue as Tenderloin. My belief is that determination is the most important thing in work and it only comes hand in hand with responsibility. By pursuing that responsibility, a man’s spirit hardens to take on anything that comes in his way.」

The life in America opened up Nishi’s eyes to the values of his own country and further matured his attitude toward work and life. This adamant spirit built in the U.S. is now passed on down to his every creation. The painstaking efforts to perfect the style and form he yearns for, come from decades of challenges to infuse his all into Tenderloin’s products.
The creations by Tenderloin
「Tenderloin’s products are a mirror of what we’ve experienced in life. We try to project only the top standards we’ve directly encountered or passed on to us from trusted friends that truly impress us. That is the only real way to deliver something authentic to this world.」

Media appearances are very rare for Tenderloin because they put their main weight on communicating through the products themselves. Their stance is to get the audience to directly touch and see the clothes first hand to discover what is wedged into the creation. An old fashioned way but definitely the most effective way for the apparel and the wearer to properly connect.

「Ways of expression are infinite, so I’d rather destruct stereotypes than cling on to the status quo. Evolving values and making something more beneficial is the true essence of creativity and in my method, I find the joy in keeping old ways alive and upgrading it into something new. By repeating this cycle over and over again, finally something original is born and fashion is created. Our ambition isn’t to change the world of fashion, or anything vast like that, but we definitely want the industry to go in a good direction. That’s why we take pride in our originality and do our best to get our products to benefit their owners. Clothing is in everyone’s life every single day, so it’s a task worth tackling. 」

Attitude
Tenderloin isn’t keen on conveying the style of fashion, but more the attitude behind it. Creating something different and faking originality on the surface isn’t too difficult by imitating a good example. But unless the creator’s weight is projected onto the form and updates of his daily research is downloaded into it, a good audience would probably see through it. Nishi’s products has no compromises of this sort. He simply follows through his philosophy that the values of his clothes are always decided by the audience.

「Just the thought of making money with half hearted creations scares me. To produce a product with genuine quality, one needs both the effort and the outcome that exceed the expectation of the audience. Creators always have the responsibility to deliver that. And in any production, we’re not the ones to judge its values. What we have is an opportunity to present the creation, and the decision is ultimately left to the audience to decide its worth. 」

The originality
「It feels good when someone comes up to me to tell me they like Tenderloin, but on the contrary to their expectations, our activities aren’t as flashy and fun as they think. We’re in our studio every single day researching and creating samples improving our skills and trying our best to fulfill our roles in the society as professionals. We face many mistakes on the way, but I happily welcome shame from the failed attempts. The important thing is facing the fear to overcome them, because nothing with real quality can be created by trying to get around these obstacles. 」

The philosophy of Tenderloin clothing is always consistent. It almost resembles old fashioned ways and attitudes, but with an underground subcultural approach to it. Responsibility, endless effort, and genuine quality. Their testament to life certainly originated from the continuous approach to their belief in authenticity. For Tokyo and for all of Japan, their existence is a most valuable one and surely will continue to lead the way for many others to come.

Epilogue
Here ends the final episode of the series. In this trilogy, we have shed light on the relationships of the men behind the renowned brands and the thought process behind their creativity. The reader must have been surprised how close their philosophy and attitudes are but when you look at the products themselves, one could surely see the connections. In the Edo period, a style of art called the Ukiyo-e gained popularity expressing street and punk like attitudes. Now, after a few hundred years, this art is praised and sought after all over the world. I see many resemblances with this art form to the three brands representing this modern day Tokyo. It would be compelling if some day their attitude clad clothes would influence the minds and spirits of people all over the world just as the art has done so.

Forper
Forper avatar

2080 posts since 29/1/13

1 Oct 2014 07:40
Bennelli wrote: First Goro stockist in the U S of A



http://www.cottonsheep.com/goro-takahashi/
http://cottonsheepsf.tumblr.com

uh the one and only Goro's stockist in the world or even in Japan since the beginning of time and forever is the one store in Omotesandou, Tokyo.

This cottonsheep outfit is just another reseller. There's a store in Sydney Australia that used to have it too. All just reselling stuff Chinese friends had picked up on holiday. The owner of the store used to say he was friends with Goro because of "Asian Pride" or some shit. I used to give him so much shit and tell him he was such a fucking liar.
ShaneB
ShaneB avatar

908 posts since 28/11/10

1 Oct 2014 12:14
Sayword, Bennelli - I'm all over both those suggestions - the Lee X Warehouse & Trophy Dirt Jacket are quality.

Need a medium, so a large / 40 Japanese sizing should be alright I reckon - I post some pics when they turn up - who does everyone normally use to proxy stuff from Japan?
beedub
beedub avatar

6810 posts since 7/3/07

1 Oct 2014 15:35
www.stylisticsspace.com


ShaneB
ShaneB avatar

908 posts since 28/11/10

1 Oct 2014 15:49
I like that A-1 - expensive though. I'm positive Keslo or Aero could easily modify their existing A-1 designs to replicate the McCoy design - it'll be so much cheaper as well; that's probably what I'll end up doing (I thought Lost World's had the best A-1's but Bill Keslo have a new one that looks the business):


Bennelli
Bennelli avatar

3461 posts since 25/5/11

1 Oct 2014 16:52
Something a little different…

Jimmy Nelson
http://www.beforethey.com















hungryghost
hungryghost avatar

14 posts since 2/10/14

2 Oct 2014 10:13
Hey rugged bros, I'm new here but have been following this post for a while and really feeling a lot of it. I got a couple of questions if one of yall could help I'd really appreciate it.

Is there anywhere online I can buy freewheelers clothes? that gear at the top of the page is so so good.

any good websites in general for buying this type of gear or any good blogs to follow for rugged//workwear?

can anybody rec a good pair of boots for <£200?

thanks tons!
ShaneB
ShaneB avatar

908 posts since 28/11/10

2 Oct 2014 20:16
Quality B-6 Jacket on ebay:


Basically new without tags; good price as well for that sort of jacket. Size 42.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aero-leather-Flying-Jacket-B-6-shearling-redskin-size-42-usaf-AAF-rockabilly-/151430126704?pt=UK_Men_s_Vintage_Coats_Jackets&hash;=item2341f05c70
beedub
beedub avatar

6810 posts since 7/3/07

2 Oct 2014 20:37
Hungryghost, only online stockist outside of Japan of Freewheelers I've seen is Hickorees, but if you search on google.co.jp you'll be able to find plenty of Jap stockists.
hungryghost
hungryghost avatar

14 posts since 2/10/14

2 Oct 2014 20:59
thanks a lot beedub, was always put off ordering from Japan because it seemed to much hassle but gonna get searching.
Nick.
Nick. avatar

3382 posts since 11/9/09

3 Oct 2014 00:42
Don't be. People such as
beedub wrote: www.stylisticsspace.com

make it a very simple process

If you get some freewheelers be sure to post it up in here!

Boots - for 200 quid I'd look for red wings on sale or alernatively the sagaras posted on the previous page (nokipple.com)
Maguire
Maguire avatar

447 posts since 12/2/12

3 Oct 2014 05:28
hungryghost wrote: Is there anywhere online I can buy freewheelers clothes? that gear at the top of the page is so so good.

Genco-clothing will mark down and ship as gift.

http://genco-clothing.com/
Jee
Jee avatar

349 posts since 12/10/11

3 Oct 2014 06:22
hungryghost wrote: can anybody rec a good pair of boots for <£200?

Picked up a pair of the trickers x Kafka boots on the Kafka website for £138 delivered with the discount code PATRONS (I think that was the code - it was in the discounts thread). Well worth the money.

Those boots on Nokipple look good too.
jimmoleum
jimmoleum avatar

1304 posts since 15/5/12

posted 3 Oct 2014 07:59, edited 3 Oct 2014 07:59
Are they tts, or are trickers tts?
Which ones did you go for?
Been after some boots for a while now, and cant renew my golf membership if i get the cordovan aldens, so these would be perfect.

Says "sale only". Guess ive missed it then ffs.
Jee
Jee avatar

349 posts since 12/10/11

3 Oct 2014 08:40
jimmoleum wrote: Are they tts, or are trickers tts?
Which ones did you go for?
Been after some boots for a while now, and cant renew my golf membership if i get the cordovan aldens, so these would be perfect.

Says "sale only". Guess ive missed it then ffs.

These ones still in sale so the code might still be good:

http://www.kafka.co.uk/browse/Mens/Sale/b-Trickers-372/

I went down one from trainer size or if you prefer same sizing as red wing and grenson.