Menswear: Sunglasses Thread


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andymakesglasses
andymakesglasses avatar

20393 posts since 26/1/06

21 May 2020 07:10
Hanto wrote: I guess from watching something like the below, it would be good to know how much of that is standard tooling and what would be considered custom.

There's no such thing as standard tooling really. There will be some shared components (screws for example, maybe parts of hinges, the metal around a lens known as rimwire) across models but basically any detailing that is different from another model will require another tool to be made.

Plenty of companies use "off the shelf" hinges and rimwire from external suppliers which will be much cheaper as there are no tooling costs but then the look is less distinctive than something that's a unique shape or has a custom pattern.
Hanto wrote: Regarding the brands, would you say there are any that are on a par or superior to JMM? Chrome Hearts appears to be one, but not seen many of their designs.

It's really quite difficult to compare quality directly as there are so many elements to it. One aspect of quality is obviously build quality. A £125 Cubitts frame is very well put together, solidly-built with proper pinned hinges. But it is made with cheaper materials, off the shelf (but high quality) hinges and less detailing than a £600 Jacques Marie Mage frame (although still has custom pins and core wires). Then try to compare those with a £400 Ørgreen frame made in Japan but with very minimalist detailing, or a 20 grand Bentley frame.

Generally anything that's made in Japan will be high quality. Fukui is renowned for its eyewear manufacturing. But even then some Japanese factories now have Chinese subsidiaries where they do some of the work to keep the costs down.

Dee wrote: got the impression they were pretty much cost price but completely legit.

No idea what you paid but pretty sure it won't have been cost price.

Dee wrote: JMM limited release is a bit of marketing ploy isn't it, they release a model in a certain colour, minor tweak next season then another batch run?

The whole fashion industry is essentially a marketing ploy, JMM aren't unique in that. Would you still be as interested in JMM if they flooded the market with product and everyone you knew was wearing them? Also what might seem like a ploy could just be practicality. JMM aren't a big company and it costs a lot to produce frames. Releasing another colour of an existing model doesn't attract any new tooling costs so makes business sense, particularly if the initial batch was in a limited run of colours anyway (factories typically limit brands to 3 or 4 colours per order).
Hanto
Hanto avatar

2250 posts since 30/11/09

21 May 2020 07:20
andymakesglasses wrote: The whole fashion industry is essentially a marketing ploy, JMM aren't unique in that. Would you still be as interested in JMM if they flooded the market with product and everyone you knew was wearing them? Also what might seem like a ploy could just be practicality. JMM aren't a big company and it costs a lot to produce frames. Releasing another colour of an existing model doesn't attract any new tooling costs so makes business sense, particularly if the initial batch was in a limited run of colours anyway (factories typically limit brands to 3 or 4 colours per order).

Interestingly, apparently when Mr P did their first order, they were meant to get about 140 pieces and ended up with just over 40, which does make me think JMM may have had an element of a Kickstarter about it and just not been able to meet demand. I think that's why Mr P order a lot less now, if at all. Other than Matches, it seems to be mainly specialist retailers/opticians now who I guess appreciate the work and effort and therefore have the patience that a VC backed/multinational retailer may not have.

On the flip side, they upped the volume of the Dark Havana Fellini release to about 750 from 500 so could be a case of repurposing parts and starting to cater to demand more, and doing a better job of it.
Dee
Dee avatar

11588 posts since 22/11/07

21 May 2020 07:33
andymakesglasses wrote:
Dee wrote: got the impression they were pretty much cost price but completely legit.

No idea what you paid but pretty sure it won't have been cost price.

Well they were significantly cheaper, pr of Iota's for £222.11, from that store I asked you about, Duos.

Bromptons on High St Ken wanted £495
NigelBenn
NigelBenn avatar

4244 posts since 6/2/08

22 May 2020 00:24
Has anybody got experience with Ayame?
Hanto
Hanto avatar

2250 posts since 30/11/09

22 May 2020 14:40
Any advice on re-shaping acetate Andy?

My JMM Fellini's have arrived and, as beautiful as they are, one of the arms is pretty straight and is definitely off.Cry

wembly
wembly avatar

451 posts since 15/1/13

22 May 2020 15:06
use hot water or a hair dryer for applying heat and then try to from if you want to do it yourself
Rirawin
Rirawin avatar

9363 posts since 17/7/05

posted 22 May 2020 18:44, edited 22 May 2020 18:44
EDIT: wrong thread
andymakesglasses
andymakesglasses avatar

20393 posts since 26/1/06

22 May 2020 20:26
Hanto wrote: Any advice on re-shaping acetate Andy

That's pretty bad at that price-point. Where did you buy them from? You're well within your rights to ask the retailer to sort them.

A local independent optician would be able to fix this using a frame heater, but most are only open for emergency sight tests at the moment.

Séamus at the Optical Workshop has a frame heater, you could ask him what he'd charge.

Definitely DO NOT try and sort it yourself with a hairdryer. The heat is too strong and can crack any coatings you have on the lenses and may discolour the acetate. You could try warm water but I'd recommend letting a professional do it.
padawan
padawan avatar

4298 posts since 27/6/03

23 May 2020 10:25


Delivered from Greece in 2 days.
Love em.
Anto
Anto avatar

3811 posts since 19/1/12

23 May 2020 13:21
Sorry for that Hanto, but that's pretty bad at that price point and for a company claiming top quality materials, details, craftsmanship etc.

I would send them back straightaway and ask for a replacement
Hanto
Hanto avatar

2250 posts since 30/11/09

posted 23 May 2020 13:53, edited 23 May 2020 13:53
andymakesglasses wrote:
Hanto wrote: Any advice on re-shaping acetate Andy

That's pretty bad at that price-point. Where did you buy them from? You're well within your rights to ask the retailer to sort them.

A local independent optician would be able to fix this using a frame heater, but most are only open for emergency sight tests at the moment.

Séamus at the Optical Workshop has a frame heater, you could ask him what he'd charge.

Definitely DO NOT try and sort it yourself with a hairdryer. The heat is too strong and can crack any coatings you have on the lenses and may discolour the acetate. You could try warm water but I'd recommend letting a professional do it.

Shop in Miami so not that straight forward for me to return. JMM have said to take it up with the retailer to sort but it is their fault. There is a JMM retailer in Hove who have recommended me a place near me in Chichester that stock Oliver Peoples etc so get it and buy from the wife whose husband runs Seen. Seen have said they can do it so could send to them to look at.

Anto wrote: Sorry for that Hanto, but that's pretty bad at that price point and for a company claiming top quality materials, details, craftsmanship etc.

I would send them back straightaway and ask for a replacement

It's not ideal I know but the guy has been super helpful thus far and its not his fault they are like that. I'm more pissed at JMM as they don't really want to know.

I think they have sold out of it as well. Essentially every retailer who gets a pair has maybe two in eat colour, at a push, and it looks to be the most popular of the new releases

Nice Pads. I thought you were free getting the Fellini? Which shop in Greece out of interest?
Anto
Anto avatar

3811 posts since 19/1/12

23 May 2020 14:44
Hanto wrote:
Anto wrote: Sorry for that Hanto, but that's pretty bad at that price point and for a company claiming top quality materials, details, craftsmanship etc.

I would send them back straightaway and ask for a replacement

It's not ideal I know but the guy has been super helpful thus far and its not his fault they are like that. I'm more pissed at JMM as they don't really want to know.

I think they have sold out of it as well. Essentially every retailer who gets a pair has maybe two in eat colour, at a push, and it looks to be the most popular of the new releases

Yeah, i'd be fuming at the company not trying to fix something like that, because it's clearly their fault…but at the same time a retailer selling a pair of £££ sunglasses and not spotting something as noticeable as that wouldn't make me happy either.
swede
swede avatar

8840 posts since 21/3/09

23 May 2020 14:57
Hanto wrote: Any advice on re-shaping acetate Andy?

My JMM Fellini's have arrived and, as beautiful as they are, one of the arms is pretty straight and is definitely off.Cry


price on them and you're considering fixing them yourself Laughing out loud Laughing out loud wtf
swede
swede avatar

8840 posts since 21/3/09

23 May 2020 14:58
oh just seen your responses above. shit situation. shit brand
Joe Bloggs
Joe Bloggs avatar

397 posts since 28/9/10

24 May 2020 10:18
Looking to put a gradient lens (like these ones) into a pair of sunglasses I already own, anyone know who could do it for me and roughly much it would cost?

Dee
Dee avatar

11588 posts since 22/11/07

24 May 2020 10:35
Wonder if those have been adjusted for someone Hanto and then returned? No big deal, as Andy said just take them to a dealer and they'll sort them out, had some done recently and now more out of alignment but fit way better, Opticians will put them back if I decide to move them on.

pad Cool
eazypz
eazypz avatar

3190 posts since 16/4/10

24 May 2020 12:23
I'd blame the retailer rather than the brand, they should inspect all items on delivery and send back faulty items to the supplier.
If that was missed, then it should be inspected prior to delivery, especially to a different country, looks like a very easy spot.

Just get them shaped somewhere here and ask the retailer for a discount.
Premium products should be perfect.
Hanto
Hanto avatar

2250 posts since 30/11/09

posted 24 May 2020 12:44, edited 24 May 2020 12:44
Dee wrote: Wonder if those have been adjusted for someone Hanto and then returned? No big deal, as Andy said just take them to a dealer and they'll sort them out, had some done recently and now more out of alignment but fit way better, Opticians will put them back if I decide to move them on.

pad Cool

I think based on turnaround they were shipped as soon as they arrived. They definitely would have opened the box as there is a complementary spray they included in it.

eazypz wrote: I'd blame the retailer rather than the brand, they should inspect all items on delivery and send back faulty items to the supplier.
If that was missed, then it should be inspected prior to delivery, especially to a different country, looks like a very easy spot.

Just get them shaped somewhere here and ask the retailer for a discount.
Premium products should be perfect.

True. I already got 20% off, before they were even released, that's why I am less pissed than I would be normally. If I had to pay £20 postage or whatever to get an optician to fix them then they would still be under UK retail. Most places have said the job would be free or a tenner or so.

Alsothe guy from the shop I bought then fromhas been great on email on general stuff re. JMM since I first spoke to him 2 months ago.

Got my eye on a pair of sand Dealan's next. Sticking out tongue
andymakesglasses
andymakesglasses avatar

20393 posts since 26/1/06

25 May 2020 08:34
eazypz wrote: I'd blame the retailer rather than the brand.

I agree up to a point. Even if JMM's quality control is that bad a good retailer should be sorting out the problem before sending it out to a customer.

Joe Bloggs wrote: Looking to put a gradient lens (like these ones) into a pair of sunglasses I already own, anyone know who could do it for me and roughly much it would cost?

Séamus at The Optical Workshop will be able to do it. From memory I think it's 80 quid.
Hanto
Hanto avatar

2250 posts since 30/11/09

25 May 2020 12:17
andymakesglasses wrote:
eazypz wrote: I'd blame the retailer rather than the brand.

I agree up to a point. Even if JMM's quality control is that bad a good retailer should be sorting out the problem before sending it out to a customer.

Joe Bloggs wrote: Looking to put a gradient lens (like these ones) into a pair of sunglasses I already own, anyone know who could do it for me and roughly much it would cost?

Séamus at The Optical Workshop will be able to do it. From memory I think it's 80 quid.

This was my response from Jerome himself…

The best is to email the store you purchased from and they can fix it very easily for you. The acetate just need to be warmed up a bit and adjusted… very routine. Please contact directly your retailer. Thanks