Menswear: The DENIM Thread

Brad avatar

5020 posts since 20/6/01

posted 5 Dec 2011 20:54, edited 5 Dec 2011 20:54
Official thread sponsor: The Denim Doctor. First aid for your old denim.


Acne - fit true to size

APC New Standards -size down 2 or even 3 from true waist size

APC New Cures - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

April 77 - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

Dior raw 19s and 21s - have vanity sizing and are labelled as two sizes smaller than actual size

Edwin Nashvilles - size down 1" - quite a different fit to most jeans out there though (massive rise, loose at thigh and comparitively tapered at the leg).

Julian Red - fit small, so maybe true to size on raw and possibly size up on non raws

Nudies - size down 1 or 2

Raf by Raf - true

Ring - true

(New thread, old one started by Paulo G, archived here)
Danny RnH
Danny RnH avatar

28 posts since 1/6/13

posted 5 Apr 2014 15:14, edited 5 Apr 2014 15:14
Danny RnH
Danny RnH avatar

28 posts since 1/6/13

posted 5 Apr 2014 15:16, edited 5 Apr 2014 15:16
Trystero wrote:
Spector wrote: Hi guys, just wondering how I might go about buying a pair of Eternal 811's?

I"m in Ireland so obviously zero chance of buying them here. Thought their might be an online UK site that may have them but the only sites I've come come across have dollar signs and prices which mean ordering from the US with all the extra shipping + duty etc.

Has anyone here bought a pair recently , just wondering where?


Afaik there aren't any UK stockists – which is no great loss tbh as all of the UK stores that do sell Japanese denim charge an astronomical mark-up (see Rivet and Hide, Son of a Stag etc)

If you're after a new pair then you only really have two choices: US or Japan.

Blue in Green Soho have a full size run and will mark down for customs, so there won't be any extra import duty fees to pay.

You could also get them proxied from Japan (rakuten, etc), which would work out cheaper but will be a bit more hassle.

They also occasionally crop up on Superfuture classifieds so it might be worth doing a 'want to buy' post there.

Don't think you’ll have much luck on here as I couldn't even give away the pair I was selling – think they went for about £40 in the end…

I just saw your post and think it merits a reply. I do not add an astronomical mark up on what I sell. The diffrence in a Japanese price and mine just reflects the import costs and tax position in the UK.

When a jean lands in the UK from Japan it costs me an average of £25 in duty and shipping costs. With any sale of a pair 20% of the price will go to the UK tax man in VAT.

So if you take a jean I sell at £229 you can work out that at this point I only see £165.83.

Add on the huge PayPal charge (credit card a bit less) of £7.00 transaction fee and my free shipping of between £7-18 depending on UK or Europe.

We open our first brick and mortar store at 5 Windmill St in London in a couple of weeks. This is a huge overhead as you can imagine. My challenge and determination is to keep the prices where they are rather than have to push them up with this added cost.

I travel to Japan twice a year to choose the jeans and other apparel and am always thrilled to see British Made goods in stores over there. They are usually 3 times the price than in the UK.
padawan avatar

4292 posts since 27/6/03

posted 10 Apr 2014 20:31, edited 10 Apr 2014 20:31

Like the tune.
JacktheHat avatar

1655 posts since 26/2/10

posted 11 Apr 2014 11:50, edited 11 Apr 2014 11:50
I've got a pair of brand new raw selvedge Gap x Baldwin jeans size 36x32 if you want them.

I bought 2 pairs (34's and 36's) to see which ones would shrink to the best size and did the 36's first but it appears they're sanforized.
Still stiff with starch and never worn.
If anyone wants them for the cost of the postage send me a PM.

jc91 avatar

138 posts since 9/9/11

13 Apr 2014 17:44
Anyone else have experience with Edwin ed-80? Take a 30" in APC ps, went for a 29 in the ed-80s as I was told they're about .1.5" bigger than tagged and will stretch a bit. Fit is mostly good, still uncomfortable at the hips though after a couple of weeks despite having some give at the waist. Mostly when sat down etc. Will they stretch more or should I have just gone for the 30"?

raven avatar

10 posts since 22/2/14

13 Apr 2014 19:01
my ed-55s stretched about a size over the course of a month or something
jc91 avatar

138 posts since 9/9/11

13 Apr 2014 19:46
Wish I'd have gone for the 55s, I had some non selvedge ones for beaters. Good fit. But liked the plain back pockets etc on the 80s. Should be fine once stretched out a bit though. Hopefully..
Spud Webb
Spud Webb avatar

34 posts since 3/6/11

14 Apr 2014 09:07
Wanting something similar to Sam 710's but in a lighter weight (14oz), recommendations ?

Anyone have experience with flathead's 3009's ?
Willie.Miles avatar

206 posts since 26/2/12

15 Apr 2014 16:03
Has this happened to anyone/know roughly how much it will cost to fix?

deuce avatar

13832 posts since 21/1/08

15 Apr 2014 16:06
about £35/month
Willie.Miles avatar

206 posts since 26/2/12

15 Apr 2014 16:10
cheers mate
rural avatar

17681 posts since 26/9/06

posted 15 Apr 2014 17:12, edited 15 Apr 2014 17:12
What's the consensus on The Denim Doctor these days? Need some work done but have heard a few negative things about the quality off here. Not bothered about issues of price more about the standard of work?
toomuchcoffeeman avatar

210 posts since 28/3/11

posted 15 Apr 2014 17:19, edited 15 Apr 2014 17:19
How long does he normally take? Wasn't really satisfied with the quality of his work but then again I requested that he complete them within a day

Edit: forgot to mention that communication was good and fairly pleasant guy to deal with too
Noble Locks
Noble Locks avatar

66963 posts since 10/7/03

posted 15 Apr 2014 17:32, edited 15 Apr 2014 17:32
There is nobody better than the denim doctor.
DELFOR avatar

343 posts since 10/2/09

15 Apr 2014 18:39
Dr denim is good, but being south makes it inconvient and the added costs of postage. I used a talior on Lexington st Called pinnas and needles. Did a decent taper keeping selvedge, he tapered from the inside leg and used the same thread keeping the original detail
gaffer avatar

501 posts since 13/4/05

15 Apr 2014 21:56
Had 2 repairs done by the denim doc in the last few weeks and delighted with both. Left jeans with him for a week on both occasions.
THE GUV'NOR avatar

3279 posts since 4/5/04

16 Apr 2014 10:46
31 in APC PS what size pure blue 011 should i buy? thinking 32? (measurements look similar to apcs)
Mr Black
Mr Black avatar

69 posts since 26/7/11

16 Apr 2014 17:11
I occasionally help out at Son of a stag. Last time i was working there a fella bought in some Edwins that he'd sent to the Denim Doctor for tapering. I was totally appalled at the quality of his work.

Rather than taper from the inseam as the doctor agreed he'd do, he used the selvedge side and spread it out to about 1.5 inch per side making the jeans so tight that the guy couldn't get them on.

I was pretty amazed how shoddy it was as i'd always heard positive things.
quest avatar

3488 posts since 11/7/11

posted 16 Apr 2014 17:24, edited 16 Apr 2014 17:24
He did the same with mine. Only slight taper but he did it spreading the selvedge from the outseam instead of inseam (he agreed to do from inseam and said it would be fine)…
adidaskev avatar

1001 posts since 30/11/11

16 Apr 2014 20:28
Where's best to send a new pair to get taken up? Want to use somewhere that will put in a chain-stitched hem.