Menswear: The DENIM Thread


Brad
Brad avatar

5019 posts since 20/6/01

posted 5 Dec 2011 20:54, edited 5 Dec 2011 20:54
Official thread sponsor: The Denim Doctor. First aid for your old denim.

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Acne - fit true to size

APC New Standards -size down 2 or even 3 from true waist size

APC New Cures - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

April 77 - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

Dior raw 19s and 21s - have vanity sizing and are labelled as two sizes smaller than actual size

Edwin Nashvilles - size down 1" - quite a different fit to most jeans out there though (massive rise, loose at thigh and comparitively tapered at the leg).

Julian Red - fit small, so maybe true to size on raw and possibly size up on non raws

Nudies - size down 1 or 2

Raf by Raf - true

Ring - true

(New thread, old one started by Paulo G, archived here)
THE GUV'NOR
THE GUV'NOR avatar

3279 posts since 4/5/04

21 Aug 2014 12:07
Blue in green New York could have got cheaper in demino from Japan or take 5 in Hk where I am but all out of stock and next prod run isn't expected til November was only say £30 diference and wanted to get started
figurine
figurine avatar

5728 posts since 14/5/07

21 Aug 2014 12:11
Trent wrote: It's been a while since I've bought Edwins (now I'm the winner of the fuk comp)

What's the fit (or differences) like on ED-55 or ED-80? Still size down two?
I'm into APC PNS now and I force myself into a 30 for the stretch.
ED80 are a lot skinnier than ED55 I think, and smaller fitting too. Don't think Edwin stretch as much as APC do, so I would go for a 31 if you're going for ED55 and a 32 for ED80.
DELFOR
DELFOR avatar

326 posts since 10/2/09

24 Aug 2014 08:41
I am tempted by the oni secret denim 527r, anyone got any experience with these. Is it best to size down?
I hear lots of shrinkage too, I can get them from japan for about half the price compared to son of stag. But inseam could be risk (36") if there is mad shrinkage
Birdman
Birdman avatar

1351 posts since 10/3/10

24 Aug 2014 13:29
figurine wrote:
Trent wrote: It's been a while since I've bought Edwins (now I'm the winner of the fuk comp)

What's the fit (or differences) like on ED-55 or ED-80? Still size down two?
I'm into APC PNS now and I force myself into a 30 for the stretch.
ED80 are a lot skinnier than ED55 I think, and smaller fitting too. Don't think Edwin stretch as much as APC do, so I would go for a 31 if you're going for ED55 and a 32 for ED80.

I bought a pair of ED80s recently, and I've got some 55s too - main difference is the thigh is slimmer on the ED80. Both have a good taper (7.25 and 7.5 opening respectively - for a 34 waist). I sized down according to the measurements on the End website and both fitted fine. I got these - http://www.endclothing.co.uk/edwin-ed-80-slim-tapered-rainbow-selvage-jean.html and think you would be hard pressed to find a better pair for the money if you pick them up in the sale (made in Japan finished in Italy etc).
adidaskev
adidaskev avatar

1001 posts since 30/11/11

24 Aug 2014 15:26
raw Edwin's are vanity sized so a 34 is actually a 32 waist 32 is a 30 etc. The higher the number, the slimmer the fit.

47s are a slim/straight, 55s slim and 80s slim/skinny. Measurements on End will help also.
swiftus
swiftus avatar

762 posts since 1/7/09

25 Aug 2014 18:22
Any recommendations on slim straight/tapered black raw selvedge?
Ruben
Ruben avatar

10775 posts since 2/7/03

25 Aug 2014 18:33
IH 555S BLK worth looking at. I've got the indigo and love them. Sanforized so no need to soak etc. You have to get the thigh right with these as they're pretty slim in the top block.

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/ih-555s-blk.html

adidaskev
adidaskev avatar

1001 posts since 30/11/11

25 Aug 2014 21:58
Ruben has your IHs stretched a lot?
Ruben
Ruben avatar

10775 posts since 2/7/03

posted 26 Aug 2014 04:16, edited 26 Aug 2014 04:16
Yeah but they had to mate, 555 is a bit on the slim side for my thighs so they've stretched out nicely.

I've got a pair of the new SEXIH 633S on the way, roomier top block with a taper. Got high hopes for them. 21oz again which is my favourite denim. Fingers crossed I've got the sizing right.

I love my 555 but if I put on a few lbs of timber over the winter I won't be getting into them.
Trent
Trent avatar

1844 posts since 18/1/09

26 Aug 2014 06:05
Thanks for the Edwin help gents. Maybe a shade too tigger happy on my email back to Aphrodite. Went for a black ED-88 premium selvage in a 30R. I can manage a 29 APC PNS, just. Should be fine. The measurements on End and Aphrodite for the rainbows in ED-55 seemed big at 30W. Needed below a 30W, which aphrodite do not stock.

I remember buying a pair of 31W Nashville raw about 6/7 years ago. Could have fit another person in there with me.
gkitch
gkitch avatar

72 posts since 30/6/11

26 Aug 2014 06:42
Ruben any tips for stretching your IH? A pair i bought recently are too tight on the thighs but i love the fit so want to stick with them if i can.
Mancunia
Mancunia avatar

633 posts since 29/10/12

26 Aug 2014 08:22
swiftus wrote: Any recommendations on slim straight/tapered black raw selvedge?
Ruben
Ruben avatar

10775 posts since 2/7/03

26 Aug 2014 14:18
gkitch wrote: Ruben any tips for stretching your IH? A pair i bought recently are too tight on the thighs but i love the fit so want to stick with them if i can.

No tips other than just wear them. If yrs are the 21oz then they will definitely stretch. I wore them to work for a week, could hardly move in them on day 1 and by day 5 they were spot on. Just bear with them.
gkitch
gkitch avatar

72 posts since 30/6/11

26 Aug 2014 14:46
Nice one man appreciate it
Crackajack
Crackajack avatar

7103 posts since 21/4/05

26 Aug 2014 16:41
Went to Son of a stag today (after finding it far too busy on Saturday), really excellent service / product knowledge and free 'while you wait' hemming also offered to hem them again when I eventually wash them if needed. Must have tried on 10+ pairs and settled on some Tellason in the end, they have a lot more stock than the website shows and are updating that over the next couple of weeks as well.
andrew_
andrew_ avatar

429 posts since 23/1/10

26 Aug 2014 17:38
What cut did you go for? I like the look of the new Elgin fit (mid rise, tapered leg)

Also really like the little 'red tab' nod they put in that only appears as they fade…
Crackajack
Crackajack avatar

7103 posts since 21/4/05

26 Aug 2014 18:28
Went for these:

http://www.sonofastag.com/collections/tellason/products/tellason-john-graham-mellor-14-75oz-jeans


Wanted something slightly wider at the hem than the Elgin (to me they looked a bit slim for boots, in w31 anyway).

Seem very good for the price - made in USA, sturdy pockets, discrete branding, leather patch. Definitely worth the extra money over APC.
Ruben
Ruben avatar

10775 posts since 2/7/03

26 Aug 2014 18:30
Look quality Cool
Sayword
Sayword avatar

5086 posts since 1/4/07

26 Aug 2014 20:01
Crackajack wrote: Went for these:

http://www.sonofastag.com/collections/tellason/products/tellason-john-graham-mellor-14-75oz-jeans


Wanted something slightly wider at the hem than the Elgin (to me they looked a bit slim for boots, in w31 anyway).

Seem very good for the price - made in USA, sturdy pockets, discrete branding, leather patch. Definitely worth the extra money over APC.

I have these:


overall great denim, However the rise on these may seem mid, but they love to be low, maybe it's because I sag, but these to me automatically it low on my hips, even with the tightest of belt placement. I'm waiting for them to wear and contour to my body.


Great pair of denim from an enthusiast stand point. Rivets, Tanner goods leather, hidden red tab that says legal, cone denim patch, telleson stamp. Only grip is the Sanforized denim.
Sayword
Sayword avatar

5086 posts since 1/4/07

26 Aug 2014 20:06
got them on ebay unworn for $69usd, so I ain't mad