Menswear: The DENIM Thread


Brad
Brad avatar

5025 posts since 20/6/01

posted 5 Dec 2011 20:54, edited 5 Dec 2011 20:54
Official thread sponsor: The Denim Doctor. First aid for your old denim.

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Acne - fit true to size

APC New Standards -size down 2 or even 3 from true waist size

APC New Cures - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

April 77 - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

Dior raw 19s and 21s - have vanity sizing and are labelled as two sizes smaller than actual size

Edwin Nashvilles - size down 1" - quite a different fit to most jeans out there though (massive rise, loose at thigh and comparitively tapered at the leg).

Julian Red - fit small, so maybe true to size on raw and possibly size up on non raws

Nudies - size down 1 or 2

Raf by Raf - true

Ring - true

(New thread, old one started by Paulo G, archived here)
DELFOR
DELFOR avatar

376 posts since 10/2/09

18 Nov 2015 19:47
The so called slim/tapered of the Sammies were still too loose for my liking. I had them tapered further, but still too much room in the thigh. So I moved them on
Jimmy326
Jimmy326 avatar

4593 posts since 22/9/07

18 Nov 2015 20:08
Admittedly the 710's were not as slim as I was expecting, but I think you've got to bear in mind that the fit will change as the denim shrinks through washing, and softens up with wear.

You couldn't have a pair of skinnies in 19oz raw denim from the get-go, you wouldn't be able to move in them.
Dee
Dee avatar

12057 posts since 22/11/07

18 Nov 2015 20:27
S003JP are the slimmest, as Delfor, had to get the taper done a touch more from around the knee to a 7.75" hem. Size 35 had a hem of nearly 8.5" once shortened Could have gone true to with a 34.

Tapered selvage side so the rise was unaffected, fit is good for me personally although the selvage has been spread which I asked to keep the top shape. Left wide on the inside its going to fade pretty shit unless I cut it back in to shape (anyone done this?). They're breaking in relatively quickly compared to the 710's and 5000 in the past.

Pair of PBJ XX013 on order via denimio which look like a slightly slimmer cut unaltered.

trailofdavid
trailofdavid avatar

6334 posts since 14/8/09

18 Nov 2015 20:42
I'd be a 28 or 29 inch waist, so the taper might be ok for me on the 710s
Jimmy326
Jimmy326 avatar

4593 posts since 22/9/07

18 Nov 2015 21:05
My 710's are a 31 waist. The hem started at 7.75" and, after hemming to a 31" leg, the hem is still only a millimetre or two over 8".
DuffMan
DuffMan avatar

14389 posts since 21/2/07

18 Nov 2015 21:40
Anyone got a pair of full counts?

And how much do ONIs stretch?
spitfiredealer
spitfiredealer avatar

2537 posts since 12/6/10

18 Nov 2015 22:21
the secret denim stretches pretty easily. It's a super loose weave
cassini
cassini avatar

469 posts since 13/6/10

19 Nov 2015 00:42
Wanting to taper a pair of selvage denim from the knee down. Asked the doc a while back and he said this could only be done from the selvage side (full taper only from the inseam). Reluctant to fuck the appearance of the selvage though - any way around this?
beedub
beedub avatar

6810 posts since 7/3/07

19 Nov 2015 06:37
Any decent local tailor should be able to taper jeans from the inside seam, the only issue would be that they probably won't be able to re-do the chain stitched hem so you would have to end up sending them off to someone for that. Try Son of a Stag or maybe Rivet & Hide.
Dee
Dee avatar

12057 posts since 22/11/07

19 Nov 2015 06:56
Get the full inseam done with absolute minimum from the top.
Honnete
Honnete avatar

224 posts since 15/10/15

posted 19 Nov 2015 07:18, edited 19 Nov 2015 07:18
Are any local tailors decent when it comes to denim though? I've yet to find one even half decent enough that I would trust with mine.Specialist job every time for me
Crackajack
Crackajack avatar

8009 posts since 21/4/05

19 Nov 2015 07:28
Had thought it was odd the Dr refuses to taper from knee on the inside.
Dee
Dee avatar

12057 posts since 22/11/07

19 Nov 2015 08:35
don't think it can be done, you need to replace the seam unless they can double needle stitch?
spitfiredealer
spitfiredealer avatar

2537 posts since 12/6/10

19 Nov 2015 08:59
said it before but send them to http://www.railcarfinegoods.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1514 hands down the best work i have had done.
Dee
Dee avatar

12057 posts since 22/11/07

19 Nov 2015 09:19
Looks like they do exactly the same as the doc with the inside seam.
blackham
blackham avatar

1861 posts since 17/7/13

19 Nov 2015 09:27
how do APC Petit NS fit?
spitfiredealer
spitfiredealer avatar

2537 posts since 12/6/10

19 Nov 2015 09:53
Dee wrote: Looks like they do exactly the same as the doc with the inside seam.

They do but all done on vintage machines and i have never got any loss in the thigh or rise.
adidaskev
adidaskev avatar

1001 posts since 30/11/11

19 Nov 2015 14:57
spitfiredealer wrote: Got a pair of Samurai's on pre order with them and so far only good things to say about them.

Is it the colab pair you've pre-ordered mate? Been looking at those ones myself.

Looking at getting a pair of Samurai's that fit close to 501XX 1947 STF, anyone able to quickly tell me which ones will be best?
spitfiredealer
spitfiredealer avatar

2537 posts since 12/6/10

19 Nov 2015 15:15
Yes the Colab. The geisha denim is meant to be great.
THE GUV'NOR
THE GUV'NOR avatar

3279 posts since 4/5/04

20 Nov 2015 04:55
DELFOR wrote: The so called slim/tapered of the Sammies were still too loose for my liking. I had them tapered further, but still too much room in the thigh. So I moved them on

snap i got mine tapered and dont look great! recommend either the PB XX-11 OR XX-13 great slimmer fit