Menswear: The DENIM Thread


Brad
Brad avatar

5025 posts since 20/6/01

posted 5 Dec 2011 20:54, edited 5 Dec 2011 20:54
Official thread sponsor: The Denim Doctor. First aid for your old denim.

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Acne - fit true to size

APC New Standards -size down 2 or even 3 from true waist size

APC New Cures - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

April 77 - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

Dior raw 19s and 21s - have vanity sizing and are labelled as two sizes smaller than actual size

Edwin Nashvilles - size down 1" - quite a different fit to most jeans out there though (massive rise, loose at thigh and comparitively tapered at the leg).

Julian Red - fit small, so maybe true to size on raw and possibly size up on non raws

Nudies - size down 1 or 2

Raf by Raf - true

Ring - true

(New thread, old one started by Paulo G, archived here)
YLAup
YLAup avatar

5650 posts since 5/9/11

12 Oct 2020 11:17
If I chainstitch stonewashed denim hems, how likely is it that they get the roping effect?
Copper
Copper avatar

2962 posts since 29/11/11

12 Oct 2020 11:26
When you wash them the denim should pucker up but you won’t get roping with dye loss, obviously. Also depends on how thick the thread is on the chain stitch, I think.
LFC
LFC avatar

5485 posts since 14/6/11

12 Oct 2020 11:46
It wouldn’t work on stonewashed denim. Like copper said you might get the slight pull because of the chainstitch but there would be no pattern to form as there is no dye to be rubbed/washed away.
YLAup
YLAup avatar

5650 posts since 5/9/11

12 Oct 2020 12:49
Cool
joe6886
joe6886 avatar

908 posts since 16/11/08

12 Oct 2020 18:55
If anyone is looking for someone UK based to do darning on their jeans, I’ve just had some done by this guy..

https://darnedfine.com/

Done a tidy job, obviously the threads need to fade and blend in a bit but much better than work I’ve had done by the denim doctor in the past.

compulsiveshopper
compulsiveshopper avatar

1292 posts since 12/6/12

18 Oct 2020 13:15
What online Japanese stores ship to the UK and ideally have English on their sites? I am looking for a specific D'artisan shirt and can't seem to locate it in the UK annoyingly
Jero
Jero avatar

129 posts since 27/7/09

18 Oct 2020 13:48
https://www.denimio.com
https://www.okayamadenim.com
compulsiveshopper
compulsiveshopper avatar

1292 posts since 12/6/12

19 Oct 2020 13:48
Cannot locate the shirt I am looking for on those sites, but I am grateful all the same for those two links
bungleski
bungleski avatar

527 posts since 21/7/11

4 Nov 2020 18:31
Just picked up a pair of Orslow 107 one wash for a decent price on eBay. Arrived today, but they’re not selvedged. Double checked the eBay post and there is no mention of them being selvedged but I was of the assumption that all 107’s were. Can’t find anything online about this version, anyone else come across them before?
Doogan
Doogan avatar

1002 posts since 13/4/14

posted 4 Nov 2020 20:14, edited 4 Nov 2020 20:14
Aye, I've seen that before.

https://amp.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/60v44a/help_fake_orslows/
bungleski
bungleski avatar

527 posts since 21/7/11

4 Nov 2020 21:15
Thanks Doog.
My pair have been finished better where you’d get the selvedge than the photo on that Reddit post. And I don't think they’re fake given the overall look and feel of the jeans. The links given on the Reddit page no longer work. Might drop the eBay seller a message.
Crackajack
Crackajack avatar

7930 posts since 21/4/05

posted 4 Nov 2020 21:31, edited 4 Nov 2020 21:31
Not sure if this helps at all, but that dead link via Reddit seems to be to a legit store in Japan with a very similar name

https://www.facebook.com/smaclo/

https://ameblo.jp/smaclo-2/

https://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/smaclo/

etc

It doesn't seem to be a 2nd hand store where there is a risk of fakes, so if the person with the 'fakes' bought them from there they may have been an item Orslow did? but who knows… just noticed as I had a bookmarked item from years ago when I clicked the link.

Also could they have been tapered in a way that removes the selvedge? Seems unlikely
bertoni
bertoni avatar

1470 posts since 29/9/11

4 Nov 2020 22:06
I know there are black Orslow 107 non selvedge as I own a pair. Not sure about blue one wash though.

https://beaubienstore.com/products/orslow-ivy-fit-denim-107-without-selvedge-black-denim?variant=47966434184
bungleski
bungleski avatar

527 posts since 21/7/11

5 Nov 2020 15:57
Thanks all for your help on this. On further investigation, I actually think that the jeans are/were the normal selvedge version, but have been tapered. The calf area is slimmer than expected and on turning the jeans inside out, it looks like there has been work done on the seam. I’ve never tapered a pair of jeans before, but I’m pretty sure towards the top of the leg the original selvedge is there.





Bit gutted as I like a turn, but overall the fit is fine and given the price I think I can live with them.
Doogan
Doogan avatar

1002 posts since 13/4/14

5 Nov 2020 17:55
I fucked up a pair of Orslow by putting them in the washing machine. There is now a faded line down the leg where they naturally fold. Is there anything I can do to sort this?

Copper
Copper avatar

2962 posts since 29/11/11

6 Nov 2020 09:39
That isn't going anywhere, embrace it.

I always put my jeans in the washing machine but on a hand soak or delicates cycle.
Doogan
Doogan avatar

1002 posts since 13/4/14

6 Nov 2020 11:31
I've actually done similar to an old pair of UES and my Resolute 710's, although not as bad. Total ballache! Laughing out loud

I'll be more careful in future with any heavy cotton items
Fläsket
Fläsket avatar

3910 posts since 14/8/04

posted 7 Nov 2020 00:50, edited 7 Nov 2020 00:50
Just as Copper said, embrace it. One on it's own doesn't look too great, but as you start to get a few more and fuck up other areas it'll be grand.
I quite like seeing Tenders with those creases -
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2jAc3ylAeK/
Doogan
Doogan avatar

1002 posts since 13/4/14

7 Nov 2020 09:27
Yeah, those look decent.
bungleski
bungleski avatar

527 posts since 21/7/11

10 Nov 2020 18:50
Backed the Orslow’s. Decided that the tapering was too much and luckily the seller accepted the return. Double gutted as another pair came and went on eBay during this time.
Does anyone here have a pair they’d be willing to shift? 107’s one wash, size 3. Thanks