Menswear: The DENIM Thread


Brad
Brad avatar

5019 posts since 20/6/01

posted 5 Dec 2011 20:54, edited 5 Dec 2011 20:54
Official thread sponsor: The Denim Doctor. First aid for your old denim.

———————————————————————————-

Acne - fit true to size

APC New Standards -size down 2 or even 3 from true waist size

APC New Cures - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

April 77 - size down 1 or 2 from true waist size

Dior raw 19s and 21s - have vanity sizing and are labelled as two sizes smaller than actual size

Edwin Nashvilles - size down 1" - quite a different fit to most jeans out there though (massive rise, loose at thigh and comparitively tapered at the leg).

Julian Red - fit small, so maybe true to size on raw and possibly size up on non raws

Nudies - size down 1 or 2

Raf by Raf - true

Ring - true

(New thread, old one started by Paulo G, archived here)
R
R avatar

12969 posts since 17/5/03

19 Jan 2012 16:27
couldnt care less, love that you always bite.
schtoop
schtoop avatar

12960 posts since 9/4/07

19 Jan 2012 16:29
Jee
Jee avatar

348 posts since 12/10/11

19 Jan 2012 16:53
Noble Locks wrote: seriously dont think there is a better pair of jeans out there than apc.

What fit noble? Want some APC's but I ain't 19 with a 30 inch waist anymore….

trailofdavid
trailofdavid avatar

6334 posts since 14/8/09

19 Jan 2012 16:55
Noble Locks wrote: im bawceing out like a bawse whos just been promoted from assistant boss.

Laughing out loud Laughing out loud
mtthrvy2
mtthrvy2 avatar

1856 posts since 8/11/10

19 Jan 2012 17:17
Noble Locks wrote: know it isnt, watching you give a fucking totally unfuunny samuel l jackson gif sarky answer to EVERY single question someone asks is fucking getting to me though.
dont like it up ya do ya. (no homo)

haha, should start an R's comedy club thread. Hes posted some right corkers
Noble Locks
Noble Locks avatar

66963 posts since 10/7/03

19 Jan 2012 17:29
Jee wrote:
Noble Locks wrote: seriously dont think there is a better pair of jeans out there than apc.

What fit noble? Want some APC's but I ain't 19 with a 30 inch waist anymore….
same as mate.
new standards, not new cures. (im a divv)
perfect leg width and opening that goes with any footwear and doesnt make you look like you are trying to be younger.
FrIEND
FrIEND avatar

13427 posts since 27/11/03

19 Jan 2012 20:46
Noble Locks wrote: if i had to never buy another pair of jeans again in my life, i dont think id be unbossed by the fact.

Laughing out loud
EVERS
EVERS avatar

8580 posts since 2/7/06

19 Jan 2012 21:05
Jordan wrote: Fuck that, nothing worse than wet jeans

nuclear war / cancer / stabbed in the eye?
MuayThaiPimp
MuayThaiPimp avatar

7925 posts since 10/8/11

19 Jan 2012 21:13
Are new cures not skinny fit/ish, noble? I thought you would rock new standards?
Noble Locks
Noble Locks avatar

66963 posts since 10/7/03

19 Jan 2012 21:14
oh shit , cheers for that.
typoed. new standards. Oops
SxV
SxV avatar

256 posts since 26/10/11

20 Jan 2012 21:56
Sorry for "noob" question, pretty much completely new to denim treatment etc. Definitely not even close to knowing how I should wash / wear to get nice fade.
Just got some petit standards, wondering what the best way to fade and wash is, or is it just trial and error to see what is personal preference?
Dee
Dee avatar

11142 posts since 22/11/07

20 Jan 2012 21:57
send em back apc are the worst jeans you can buy.
du tan
du tan avatar

1262 posts since 15/8/03

21 Jan 2012 08:08
Sxv, don't wash them at all for 6m at least. That's it really…
kid unknown
kid unknown avatar

5317 posts since 8/12/01

21 Jan 2012 09:07
i have 2 pairs of the old lee 101b made in poland and i hot soaked one pair and kept the other raw.

The soaked pair are a really dark inky blue and the denim is really soft and slightly hairy.

The raw pair are more of a dark blue with a grey tinge and have a smooth finish.

Don't particularly prefer one pair over the other so it is difficult question re whether to soak or not.

One of the best pairs of raw i have is some Japanese Evis i bought in around 98 and ive just worn and washed those like a normal person - so soft with nice fades now.

Main problem i have is too many raws on the go at once so will be years before epic fadeness.

Will look like a boss collecting my pension from the post office tho.
Jee
Jee avatar

348 posts since 12/10/11

21 Jan 2012 10:07
Cheers noble.
Sleuth
Sleuth avatar

5374 posts since 12/9/04

21 Jan 2012 10:10
kid unknown wrote: .

Main problem i have is too many raws on the go at once so will be years before epic fadeness.

Will look like a boss collecting my pension from the post office tho.


Laughing out loud
Brew
Brew avatar

411 posts since 17/12/10

21 Jan 2012 23:15
Anyone know roughly how much the doctor charges for tapering while retaining selvage? It doesn't say on his website.
Robadob
Robadob avatar

1435 posts since 29/12/04

21 Jan 2012 23:42
£19.95 + an extra £5 if you want it chainstitched. Bear in mind you'll lose the top stitched seam on the inseam.
swiss-jeansfreak
swiss-jeansfreak avatar

3 posts since 12/9/11

22 Jan 2012 00:15
SxV wrote: Sorry for "noob" question, pretty much completely new to denim treatment etc. Definitely not even close to knowing how I should wash / wear to get nice fade.
Just got some petit standards, wondering what the best way to fade and wash is, or is it just trial and error to see what is personal preference?

If it comes to raw denim stuff, the Jeansmusuem recommend to wait with washing as long as possible. And if you don't wanna lose the original raw denim color and receive heaviest fadings, some raw denim purist never wash their stuff untill the end. For those purist just follow 3 rules:

1. Start breaking in a new raw denim pants around September with the beginning of the colder season

2. Wear them in 3 stages: As first class pants in school or office as long as they're nice, then as second class jeans for leisure and outdoor activities (hiking, biking,..) and when they really start falling apart completely use them as work pants for paintings, dirty jobs in the garden, forest, repairing engines, till they have reached their real end

3. Airing them a lot during stage 1 and stage 2 and keep them out in the bunk house when it comes to stage 3. During this last period of their life you don't have to care about any filthy or smally and dirty jeans since you have to take a shower anyway after your hard job out in the dirt and they can stay outside the living room.

During stage 1 and 2 you can also wrapp them in to a plastic bag and put them in to a freezer some times.

And don't forget the after life part:

The Jeansmusuem encourage all raw denim heads to wear the hell out of all your raw denim stuff. use them as long as possible, but never throw them away.

You can frame your beloved favorite pants or denim jackets or nail them on a wall. But in case you wanna get rid of them because of moving day, grounding a family or just getting older, then the Jeansmsueum is one safe place where all your beloved rag items can survive for ever what they deserve after a long and hard life.

Thanks for sustaining the Jeansmusuem started in 1973 in a little Swiss mountain village with over 7000 panstz and 5000 denim jackets so far. The Jeansmuseum wanna keep the raw denim spirit alive for ever in the real world not on the virtuel world only

For more infos just ask
ruedi.karrer@sunrise.ch
New homepage under construction:
www.jeansmuseum.org
kushty
kushty avatar

365 posts since 2/7/09

22 Jan 2012 20:55
Brutus wrote: Anyone know roughly how much the doctor charges for tapering while retaining selvage? It doesn't say on his website.

There are two ways to do it, depending on how much you want taking off. The price is the same though. Here's the email he sent me

Denim Doctor wrote: Thank you for the email,

The shrinkage shouldnt be to much, maybe 1/2"-1" max but itdoes depend on how you wash them and on what temp setting etc…. guys on the fuk.co.uk forum can prob explain better.

With the bottoms needing tapering, there are 2 ways to do it, either to spread the inner selvedge finish open slighty (ok if only going in no more than 1" in width) or if you want it doing on the inside top sewn seam to retain the selvedge to exact same width/look i can remove the inner stitch seam and go threw this seam, but if you want to do it this way as you have to taper the thighs slighty and you will lose a touch of length the crutch also, basically i remove the full inner top sewn seam. only thing to note that looks different when alterted is the inner stitching from the outside isnt replaced. (examples on the gallery page on the denim doc website)

If for example its only going from 8" to a 7.5" hem you can spread the selvedge open slighty and still looks fine.
More than 1/2" you need to do it the way threw thigh and crutch area.

Cost for the taper is 19.95. and can replace chain stitching if wanted for extra 5.00 ?

the waist is pretty straight forward and can replace all stitching/belt loops etc.. this is 18.95.

only other cost is return p+p.

measurements can be discussed when arrived or if you have a perfect pair to copy you can send them or take measurements off them and send them with the ones you want altering.

If you would like them doing, pop them in the post to the below address along with your contact number and return address. As soon as i receive them ill give you a ring and have a quick chat about the repair/alteration needed and take payment over the phone.
( If you don't hear from me within 2 days of you posting them, please ring me on 0161 8327678.)

best regards,

Michael Pendlebury

The Denim Doctor @

James Personal Tailor & Son
Est:1973
52 Cross Street
Manchester
M2 7AR

Tel: 0161 8327678