Menswear: Which watch?


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smith
smith avatar

11736 posts since 5/5/04

posted 31 Mar 2022 10:50, edited 31 Mar 2022 10:50
fudge.dredd wrote: Increase in prices of the standard Speedy Moonwatch since Swatch release……..?


Interesting.

Is this the first time an "entry level brand" has collabed with a "luxury brand"?

Can't recall it having happened before.
fudge.dredd
fudge.dredd avatar

2002 posts since 15/12/12

posted 31 Mar 2022 11:24, edited 31 Mar 2022 11:24
Not sure if it’s in the same league but recently Kari Voutilainen has been collaborating with Schwartz Etienne…. Granted SE isn’t ‘entry level’ but KV is on another level in comparison…

burny
burny avatar

6128 posts since 25/5/06

31 Mar 2022 11:41
You'd be amazed what you'd find if you took a trip to Switzerland. Armin Strom is making parts for Christopher Ward's in-house movement SH21 and decorating Sellita movements with the Christopher Ward branding. Sellita also hired CW's head of watchmaking Johannes Janke as Head of Product development. Christopher Ward, Omega, Tissot, and Oris share a case manufacturer in China (owned by the Swatch Group). Despite the faux luxury of certain brands most manufacturing of parts is down to a small number of manufacturers.

Design and finishing is what sets most apart. I'm a traditionalist mainly which is why I appreciate and like the incremental improvements of Rolex over someone like Christopher Ward but the reality is most manufacturing is down to a small number of factories.
fudge.dredd
fudge.dredd avatar

2002 posts since 15/12/12

31 Mar 2022 11:54
burny wrote: You'd be amazed what you'd find if you took a trip to Switzerland. Armin Strom is making parts for Christopher Ward's in-house movement SH21 and decorating Sellita movements with the Christopher Ward branding. Sellita also hired CW's head of watchmaking Johannes Janke as Head of Product development. Christopher Ward, Omega, Tissot, and Oris share a case manufacturer in China (owned by the Swatch Group). Despite the faux luxury of certain brands most manufacturing of parts is down to a small number of manufacturers.

Design and finishing is what sets most apart. I'm a traditionalist mainly which is why I appreciate and like the incremental improvements of Rolex over someone like Christopher Ward but the reality is most manufacturing is down to a small number of factories.

Probably the most sensible thing you’ve ever posted. Sticking out tongue
eazypz
eazypz avatar

3613 posts since 16/4/10

1 Apr 2022 14:02
fudge.dredd wrote: Reissue of the 222. Wow.


Absolutely love this. Best watch (re-)released in recent years.

Am really into this sort of ‘Oyster Quartz’ style case, and think it looks great on the Ingenuir here

Centurionone
Centurionone avatar

1742 posts since 30/3/11

1 Apr 2022 15:39
Nothing exciting in Watches & Wonders to lust after as far as pilot watches are concerned so I carry on with this

inversesquare
inversesquare avatar

6774 posts since 7/6/08

1 Apr 2022 23:19
Interesting article on the Moon Swatch

https://www.ft.com/content/37deb2c5-d257-49dc-a8c6-67a0ad0f0deb
hooligan
hooligan avatar

709 posts since 26/1/07

posted 2 Apr 2022 21:11, edited 2 Apr 2022 21:11
Finally picked up an OP for the wife this week- this was supposed to be her push present but it’s taken so long to get one that our baby girl is now 7months old… I’ve had our names on wishlist for the 36 black for the last year or so without any joy, then saw 34 in Dubai airport coming back from holiday so went for this instead, I preferred the slightly smaller case in the end

Apparently they get 2-3 pieces a week, allocation is pretty random, but better chance of getting one in an airport than elsewhere


eazypz
eazypz avatar

3613 posts since 16/4/10

2 Apr 2022 21:26
inversesquare wrote: Interesting article on the Moon Swatch

https://www.ft.com/content/37deb2c5-d257-49dc-a8c6-67a0ad0f0deb

Can anyone open and share this?
ismvil
ismvil avatar

2062 posts since 16/9/11

posted 2 Apr 2022 21:40, edited 2 Apr 2022 21:40
copied below

It was just like old times last weekend, when thousands of people lined up around the world to buy a MoonSwatch. Not since the 1980s and 1990s has the launch of a new Swatch watch created such buzz.

The £207 timepiece they all wanted was Swatch’s tribute to the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, as worn by American astronauts including Buzz Aldrin when he walked on the moon in 1969. The MoonSwatch, which comes in 11 colours, is a playful pastiche of a clockwork icon that retails for £4,200 or more.

You need luck to secure a MoonSwatch. The Swatch Group, which owns Swatch and Omega, wants to sell as many as possible and has not made it a limited edition. But it managed the first drops at 110 Swatch stores so tightly that it caused a sensation in London and New York, while police were called to control the crowd in Melbourne.

One-off collaborations between luxury and mass brands are two a penny. Since Isaac Mizrahi’s fashion collection for Target in 2003 and Karl Lagerfeld’s for Hennes & Mauritz in 2004, the playbook has become familiar. This year’s crop includes Yeezy Gap engineered by Balenciaga, Adidas x Prada Re-Nylon and Supreme x Burberry: brands now look lonely by themselves.

The obvious way to view the MoonSwatch, and one that Omega has gently encouraged, is that it has done Swatch a favour by co-operating with the stunt. Luxury watchmakers are better known for trying to eliminate knock-offs than for encouraging imitations, but Swatch could do with a new friend.

“Sad to say, Swatch is an ageing brand that has lost traction among young people,” says Oliver Müller, founder of the Swiss advisory firm LuxeConsult. Swatch used to have a magical ability to conjure attraction to its limited edition plastic watches. The first Swatches were released in Zurich in 1983 and queues outside boutiques were soon common.

Swatches were affordable enough to collect and to match various designs with different outfits. Its collaborations with artists such as Keith Haring and Alfred Hofkunst turned into collectibles: one of a limited edition of 121 Kiki Picasso Swatches sold for $28,000 at Christie’s in 1992.

Swatch also had a deeper purpose. Nicholas Hayek, Swatch’s co-founder, rescued the Swiss industry from the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s, when Japanese quartz watches overtook cheap mechanical devices. The Swatch Group not only turned Swatch into its fashion alternative, but consolidated manufacturing of smaller brands that were facing extinction.

Fashion and technologies change, and today’s threat to Swiss watches that sell for $500 or less is the smartwatch, particularly Apple Watch. If you can change the face of an Apple Watch by swiping, swap the wristband to a different colour and track any exercise digitally, who needs quartz?

Swatch still sells about 3mn watches a year, but they are so cheap that the brand means less to the Swiss company that bears its name. Swatch contributed only 3.5 per cent of Swatch Group’s revenues last year, according to Morgan Stanley, with most coming from its Omega, Longines and Tissot brands. It really ought to be called the Omega Group.

This is the story of Swiss watches since the quartz crisis. Swatch did its job so well that it financed the industry’s move to making luxury mechanical watches: Omega sold an estimated 570,000 watches last year, but its turnover was more than 10 times that of the Swatch brand. The Swiss export half the number of watches they did two decades ago, while earning more.

But Omega has its own problem, which is where the MoonSwatch comes in. The ultimate status symbol for a modern luxury brand is being unobtainable because there are not enough to meet demand. The most salient recent development in Swiss watches is the Rolex shortage: the fact that it has become extremely hard to walk into a Rolex shop and buy one.

Omega and Rolex are old rivals with historic portfolios, from Omega’s Speedmaster and Seamaster to Rolex’s Oyster Perpetuals and Submariners. The awkward fact is that Omegas are now much easier to obtain than Rolexes, although Rolex sells an estimated 1m watches a year, at an average retail price of about $12,500. The MoonSwatch may be sold out but the Moonwatch is not.

Rolex insists that it has not tried to engineer scarcity: it is working as hard as it can to hand make more. But there is nothing like an edition that really is limited to whet the appetite. Omega could achieve the same by reducing production, but what it really needs is to attract a new generation of luxury consumers to its boomer heritage.

What could be better than thousands of people who might aspire to Rolex instead walking around with colourful imitations of Moonwatches on their wrists? Swatch Group is more heavily invested in increasing demand for Omegas than for Swatches and this guerrilla marketing campaign pays for itself.

So, the MoonSwatch has something for everyone. Swatch relives its playful and collectible past; Omega gains a line around the block.
YLAup
YLAup avatar

5896 posts since 5/9/11

2 Apr 2022 21:50
Centurionone wrote: Nothing exciting in Watches & Wonders to lust after as far as pilot watches are concerned so I carry on with this


You never own a Patek, you simply look after it for the next generation
themistake
themistake avatar

10866 posts since 20/2/06

3 Apr 2022 07:08
hooligan wrote: Finally picked up an OP for the wife this week- this was supposed to be her push present but it’s taken so long to get one that our baby girl is now 7months old… I’ve had our names on wishlist for the 36 black for the last year or so without any joy, then saw 34 in Dubai airport coming back from holiday so went for this instead, I preferred the slightly smaller case in the end

Apparently they get 2-3 pieces a week, allocation is pretty random, but better chance of getting one in an airport than elsewhere



I’ve given up. I think they bin your name after a year at Rolex, and it’s been over a year.
Best
Best avatar

9976 posts since 21/10/05

3 Apr 2022 07:40
Congrats on the OP34, looks like the perfect size for her
smith
smith avatar

11736 posts since 5/5/04

3 Apr 2022 08:46
themistake wrote: I’ve given up. I think they bin your name after a year at Rolex, and it’s been over a year.

How many times did you show your face to your AD in store in that year? Keep going in. Keep feeding them pineapples.
smith
smith avatar

11736 posts since 5/5/04

3 Apr 2022 08:48
hooligan wrote: Finally picked up an OP for the wife this week
Ubercool

It's a beaut! Wear it in good health
eazypz
eazypz avatar

3613 posts since 16/4/10

posted 3 Apr 2022 08:59, edited 3 Apr 2022 08:59
smith wrote:
themistake wrote: I’ve given up. I think they bin your name after a year at Rolex, and it’s been over a year.

How many times did you show your face to your AD in store in that year? Keep going in. Keep feeding them pineapples.

As much as I want certain things, there’s no way I’ll constantly go into a store and kiss ass and make pointless convo.
I’d rather just go without.

OP 34 looks quality. Got the Mrs the same in a 36 a few years ago, but it was always my opinion that she should of the 34!
themistake
themistake avatar

10866 posts since 20/2/06

3 Apr 2022 10:43
Absolutely not, would never do that. Who has the time?
I’m in no rush. l’ll get one when they are less in demand with IG boys/pick up an OG Stella.
smith
smith avatar

11736 posts since 5/5/04

3 Apr 2022 11:22
Someone that walks past their rolex ADs window after work wouldn't lose much time popping in once a month?

Each to their own though. I enjoy popping into stores once every 2 months and trying on different stuff and talking watches. The main one that has me on a list are always friendly and have time for me even when I turn up without the pineapples.
Centurionone
Centurionone avatar

1742 posts since 30/3/11

3 Apr 2022 13:11
I have to agree with smith here.. "relationship building' is very important and a little effort goes a long way. By " keeping up the momentum" they will remember you and in a prospective crowd of ungrateful, rude or self-important customers , you will stand out.
Centurionone
Centurionone avatar

1742 posts since 30/3/11

posted 3 Apr 2022 13:12, edited 3 Apr 2022 13:12
Congratulations on your new beauty , wear it in good health and happiness!


hooligan wrote: Finally picked up an OP for the wife this week- this was supposed to be her push present but it’s taken so long to get one that our baby girl is now 7months old… I’ve had our names on wishlist for the 36 black for the last year or so without any joy, then saw 34 in Dubai airport coming back from holiday so went for this instead, I preferred the slightly smaller case in the end
Apparently they get 2-3 pieces a week, allocation is pretty random, but better chance of getting one in an airport than elsewhere'